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UNITED STATES
EXPLORING EXPEDITION.
9 os ue a iu Ag 1 ,
=.
| K | a } 7 EG | ; sina | | cg I es : : mae : 5 OF THE | : | * or He y BY TE 1 1, ae ihe 3 ' | | A iP 3 U.S.2x.Ex. i | | - | 4 | : iii | | bl sins ue a fe pag i | | Fi ay | ae | | | | |
KAHOOL AWE ae Z Healaikahiki Pt eagso= e
Wainanalu
Kaelehulubulu
P! Mano Kailau
EE AS Wi, PAW to
Keauhou
REALAKEAKEA BAT Honaunau
Honokua
Hoopuloa | Kaulanamauna
PF Kaovili
Pohue
¢ Kalae
Kalon
-Kaula
PE Kamaihd
KAHOOL AWE Rosslathahii PE
WAP
OF THE
Niulu Upalu
ELV ELALY CAR OOP xu
on
SANDWICH ISLANDS
wy THe
U.S.Ex.Ex. syeL
Kayraiha
Kaniby
Wainanaln,
EALAREARDA BAT Monnunan. Tonokun
Toopuloa Koulans 4
koi g
JSP oe Jets Je, ga IE IEA J;
OF THE
Weil J De kel beith es
EXPLORING EXPEDITION.
DURING THE YEARS
1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842.
BY
CHARLES WILKES, USN,
COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION,
MEMBER OF THE AMERICAN PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY, E' TC.
IN FIVE VOLUMES, AND AN ATLAS.
VEO Vi:
PHILADELPHIA: LEA & BLANCHARD. 18465.
ENTERED, ACCORDING TO THE ACT OF CONGRESS, IN THE YEAR 1844, BY CHARLES WILKES, U. S. N.,
‘IN THE CLERK’S OFFICE OF THE DISTRICT COURT FOR THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
: C. SHERMAN, PRINTER, 19 sT. JAMES STREET, PHILADELPHIA.
was ‘ihe tS G soe Periuti
‘CJUN 20 1908
an “kd
“ep
COIN IDI 010 OA
CarAG ENB
ARRIVAL OF THE KING AT HONOLULU—OUR VISIT TO HIM—KEKAULUOHI—DWELLINGS AND GARDENS OF FOREIGN RESIDENTS—DWELLINGS OF THE MISSION ARIES—MISSION- ARY PRESS—SEAMEN’S CHAPEL—POLITICAL INTERCOURSE WITH FOREIGN NATIONS— MR. RICHARDS ENGAGED AS DIPLOMATIC AGENT—SUPREME COUNCIL OF GOVERNMENT —SECOND INTERVIEW WITH THE KING—HISTORY OF THE EVENTS THAT LED TO THE LAPLACE TREATY—FIRST ARRIVAL OF CATHOLIC PRIESTS—THEY ARE HOSPITABLY RECEIVED—THEY ARE SUSPECTED OF PROMOTING A REBELLION, AND EXPELLED — RUSSELL TREATY—ATTEMPT TO INTRODUCE PRIESTS UNDER ITS SANCTION—UNITED ACTION OF CAPTAINS DU PETIT THOUARS AND BELCHER— MORE PRIESTS ARRIVE — PENAL LAWS AGAINST CATHOLICS ENACTED — THEY ARE REPEALED AT THE INSTANCE OF THE AMERICAN MISSIONARIES—ARRIVAL OF CAPTAIN LAPLACE—HIS MANIFESTO—HIS DEMANDS—HIS PROSCRIPTION OF THE MISSIONARIES—CONDUCT OF THE FOREIGN RESIDENTS, AND OF THE NATIVE CHIEFS—SIGNATURE OF THE TREATY —LAPLACE DEMANDS AND OBTAINS A COMMERCIAL TREATY—HE LANDS IN ARMS TO CELEBRATE MASS—CONSEQUENCES OF THE LAPLACE TREATY—THE KING’S FEELINGS IN RELATION TO IT—HIS DESIRE TO BE RECOGNISED BY THE UNITED STATES—HIS REMONSTRANCE TO THE FRENCH GOVERNMENT—STATE OF CATHOLICISM—WRITTEN CONSTITUTION OF HAWAII— ADMINISTRATION OF THE LAWS—CRIMINAL PROCESS— ANCIENT LAWS—SUCCESSION TO THE THRONE—FEUDAL TENURES—PUNISHMENTS— TABOOS—PROMULGATION OF LAWS—ORIGIN OF FIEFS—DIVISION OF LANDS—EFFECTS OF THE NEW LAWS—TAXES—REVENUES—EXEMPTION FROM TAX—CRIMES—HAWAIIAN MYTHOLOGY—TRADITIONS—ASTRONOMY—CALENDAR—IDEA OF ECLIPSES—K NOWLEDGE OF NAVIGATION—FEATS IN SWIMMING—SOCIAL ATTACHMENT AND TIES—INDOLENCE ASCRIBED TO THE NATIVES—THEIR AMUSEMENTS—HOLUA—PLAYING IN THE SURF— DANCES—CARDS—SEE-SAW—NATIVE PHYSICIANS AND MEDICIN Kiycenneene eee seal
VOL. IV. B
vi CONTENTS.
CAHeAWE, Hee a1
SATURDAY IN HONOLULU—SUNDA Y—CHURCHES—SCHOOLS—TALENT OF THE SCHOLARS FOR ARITHMETIC — BURIAL-GROUND— GRAVE OF DOUGLASS THE BOTA NIST—PLAYS— MAIKA—BUHENEHENE—THROWING THE LANCE—REPAIRS OF THE VESSELS—COURT- MARTIAL—PUNISHMENT OF SWEENY, AND TWO MARINES—DISCHARGE OF SWEENY— POLICE OF HONOLULU—ROADS—EXPEDITION OF THE TENDER—KOLOA—DR. PICKERING AND MR. BRACKENRIDGE’S EXCURSION—WAIMEA—DR. SCHOOF—HANAPEPE—CASCADE —CULTIVATION—DECREASING POPULATION—ITS CAUSES— AGRICULTURE—SCHOOLS— CHURCH—ISLAND OF NIIHAU—DISTRICT OF KOLOA—JOURNEY ACROSS THE ISLAND OF KAUAI—RIVER WAINIHA—EXCURSION OF MESSRS, PEALE AND RICH—LIHUI—NAWILI- WILI—MR. AND MRS. LAFON—SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES—HANAWALE—DEBORAH—HER FISH-PONDS— WATERFALL— BEAUTIFUL GROVE—TUTULNUT OIL— WAIOLI—MR. TIT- COMB’S CULTURE OF SILK—INDIGO— DIVINE SERVICE— CRUISE OF THE TENDER — WAILIOLI MOUNTAIN—POPULATION OF HALELEA—RAWAILOA—WAIALUA—MOUNTAINS OF OAHU—SCHOOLS OF WAIALUA— CHURCH — DISTRICT OF KOOLAU —CLIMATE OF WAIALUA— INDUSTRY — SCHOOLS — CHURCH — POPULATION — INT EMPERA NCE — EXCUR- SION TO THE KAALA MOUNTAINS — EWA — LAULOA — FOSSIL-SHELLS—CHURCH AND SCHOOLS OF EWA—POPULATION—EXCURSION TO WAIANAE—MAUNA-KAALA — SALT LAKE— CAVES — FISH-PONDS— KANEOHE — PEARL- RIVER HARBOUR— PRODUCTIONS OF PALIL-KOOLAU—ITS CLIMATE—SCHOOLS—RETURN OF THE FLYING-FISH—FISH-PONDS OF SOMO) 0/6 Goan co54.nodu Sabb hobo SoGd So Goso DO en odds dauelsgae Bocubaos coon osbuoDdd our ccos'so os GHC:
CHCAGP Ay Brake lele
THE TENDER IS DESPATCHED TO HAWAIL—THE PORPOISE SAILS ON A SEPARATE GRUISE—PREPARATIONS FOR THE ASCENT OF MAUNA LOA—KEALAKEAKUA—NAPOLO —FACE OF THE COUNTRY—ITS PRODUCTIONS—ITS CLIMATE—ITS IMPROVEMENTS—ITS POPULATION—SCHOOLS—DISEASES—MONUMENT TO MARK WHERE COOK WAS KILLED— DISTRICT OF KAILAU—ITS CLIMATE—ITS POPULATION—DWELLINGS—SCHOOLS—KUA- KINI OR GOVERNOR ADAMS—INDUSTRY OF THE NATIVES OF KAILAU—TRADE—USEFUL ARTS—COTTON MANUFACTURE — VICES — DISEASES — MISSIONARIES — PLANTS—EXCUR- SION OF THE NATURALISTS—TEMPLE OF KAILI—MOUNTAIN GEESE—LAVA STREAMS— OLD CRATERS—GRAZING LANDS—ARRIVAL AT HILO AND RETURN TO HONOLULU— PLAN FOR THE FURTHER OPERATIONS OF THE SQUADRON—PEACOCK AND FLYING- FISH—CASE OF GIDEON SMITH—CASE OF CAPTAIN DOWSETT—PROPOSED EMPLOYMENT OF THE VINCENNES—SAILING OF THE PEACOCK AND TENDER.... ...........-.-. 95—115
CONTENTS aril
GAGE MBAR ive
THE VINCENNES LEAVES HONOLULU — DRUNKEN PILOT — MESSRS. BRINSMADE AND JUDD ACCOMPANY US—KANAKAS—PASSAGE TO HILO—BAY OF HILO—DISTANT VIEW OF HAWAII—VIEW FROM HILO BAY—OBSERVATORY ESTABLISHED AT WAIAKEA—HILO —STRENGTH OF THE PARTY FOR THE ASCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN — CONFUSION AMONG THE NATIVES—DEPARTURE FROM HILO—THE KING'S ‘FISH-PONDS—BYRON’S HILL— OLAA— PAHOIHOI] LAVA—KAPUAUHI—IRON MORTAR — TERRITORY OF PELE— FIRST VIEW OF MAUNA LOA—VOLCANO OF KILAUEA—DEPARTURE FROM IT—SCARCITY OF WATER—CLINKERS—LOSS OF MR. BRINSMADE’S STOCK OF WATER— DESERTER — THE WOODED REGION LEFT—CAVES—SUNDAY STATION—RAGSDALE JOINS THE PARTY —DR. JUDD GOES IN SEARCH OF SNOW—RECRUITING STATION—DESERTION OF THE NATIVES—FLAG STATION—UNPLEASANT NIGHT—LONGLEY IS MISSED—SUMMIT OF MAUNA LOA REACHED—ARRIVAL THERE OF MESSRS. JUDD AND PICKERING—CRATER RECONNOITRED—ORIGIN OF THE CLINKERS—CHRISTMAS DAY—LONGLEY IS FOUND — VISIT TO THE RECRUITING STATION—RETURN TO THE SUMMIT—ARRIVAL OF PROVI- SIONS FROM THE SHIP—PENDULUM-HOUSE ERECTED—NEW YEAR'S DAY—PHENOMENA OF THE CLOUDS—SURVEY OF THE SUMMIT BEGUN—PENDULUM EXPERIMENTS BEGUN —SEVERE STORM—SURVEY OF THE CRATER—EXPERIMENTS ON SOUND—PENDULUM EXPERIMENTS FINISHED — MOKU-A-WEO-WEO — HEIGHT OF MAUNA KEA—SURVEY OF 2U3 TR SLO ATTH EH ONT ESTE IMD) oP Ot conn sana Goed sabes boce cocodeus doc sdo no enue scboonee be seeeee LII—.76
(©) ELAN Ve? AI TR We
DEPARTURE FROM PENDULUM PEAK—SYMPTOMS OF THE MOUNTAIN - SICKNESS — ELECTRICAL PHENOMENA—DESCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN—ARRIVAL AT KILAUEA — DESCENT OF MESSRS. BUDD AND ELD—LOSS OF A KANAKA—SURVEY OF KILAUEA— SULPHUR-BANK—CIRCUIT OF THE CRATER—THIRD CRATER—LUA PELE—DR. JUDD’S DESCENT INTO THE CRATER—HIS PERILOUS ADVENTURES—VIEW OF THE ERUPTION— SURVEY OF THE FIERY LAKE—BLACK LEDGE—QUANTITY OF MATTER DISCHARGED— NEW DISPOSITION OF PARTIES—RETURN TO THE COAST—LUA PELE—DEEP CREVICE— KALANOKAMO— PIT AND CONE CRATERS— MAP OF THE SOUTHEAST PORTION OF HAWAII — ALEALEA-IKI—PANAU— RECENT ERUPTION—TIMBER FELLED BY LAVA — TRUNCATED CONES ON THE LAVA—NAMES OF THE CONE-CRATERS—KEK AHUNANUI— COURSE OF THE STREAM OF LAVA—CRATERS NEAR THE COAST—WHITE OWL—PUNA— KANAKIKI—VOLCANIC SAND-HILLS—CHRYSOLITE—OLD AND NEW LAVA—VIEW FROM THE SAND-HILLS—KEEAU—TRAITS OF NATIVE CHARACTER—MODE OF RECKONING DISTANCES—RETURN TO HILO—PANDANUS TREE AND ITS USES—DERANGED NATIVE—
vill CONTENTS.
PENDULUM EXPERIMENTS BEGUN—DISCREPANCIES IN THEM—APPARATUS REMOVED
TO PANEO—STOPPAGE OF THE CLOCK—NEW DISTURBANCES IN THE EXPERIMENTS—
APPARATUS REMOVED TO MOUNT KANUHA—THE EXPERIMENTS ARE SUCCESSFUL. 177—210
COCA wtb aR: VEL.
ASCENT OF MAUNA KEA BY DR. PICKERING AND MR. BRACKENRIDGE—* LONG ROAD”— CASTLE’S STATION—CAVE— LOFTY PLAIN — TERMINAL PEAKS — DESCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN —FATE OF MR. DOUGLASS — PUAHAI— MR. CASTLE’'S RESIDENCE — THEIR RETURN TO HILO—SURVEY OF HILO BAY—ACCIDENT OF THE LAUNCH—OCCUPATION OF THE OFFICERS LEFT IN THE VINCENNES—THEY ARE ENTERTAINED BY KANUHA— KANUHA AND FAMILY ENTERTAINED ON BOARD—SUGAR MANUFACTURE — COFFEE PLANTATIONS—CULTURE OF SUGAR AND COFFEE INTRODUCED BY MR. GOODRICH— THEY ARE NEGLECTED AND DISCOURAGED BY HIS SUCCESSOR—MR. COAN’S PAROCHIAL CHARGE—SCHOOLS AT HILO—WAILUKU FALLS—TACCA — INDIGO —SANDALWOOD — ~ RETURN OF MR. BRACKENRIDGE—EXPEDITION OF MESSRS. BRINSMADE AND DRAYTON —LAVA STREAM—PAHUHALI ROAD—GREAT FLOOD OF LAVA—DISTRICT OF WAIMEA— DISTRICT OF KOHALA—SCHOOL OF BLACKFISH—VISIT OF MR. DRAYTON TO KILAUEA —DR. PICKERING'S VISIT TO KILAUEA—COMPARISON OF MAUNA KEA AND MAUNA LOA —GREAT SWELL OF THE SEA IN 1837—EARTHQUAKES— CLOSE OF OUR OPERATIONS — DESCRIPTION OF THE BAY OF HILO— UNFOUNDED COMPLAINTS AGAINST THE BYANIVO) RS no cdiados baos.o56diodoR duos odoe Sand BEd Sano OSbuUe no 0bHd obou Genadade dsAs decd bend den PIU)
(Oleh AI? AR Id ie WY WE
MESSRS. PICKERING, DRAYTON, AND BRACKENRIDGE SATL FOR MAUI—DEPARTURE OF THE VINCENNES FROM HILO—HER ARRIVAL AT LAHAINA—DESCRIPTION OF MAUI— VISIT TO THE KING—KING’S PALACE—TOWN OF LAHAINA—PRIVATE APARTMENTS OF THE KING—HIS WIFE—EXCURSION TO THE SEMINARY OF WAILUKU—WEST MAUI— BUILDINGS OF THE SEMINARY—HABITS AND DRESS OF THE SCHOLARS—COURTSHIP BY LETTER—MERITS AND DEFECTS OF THE SEMINARY—MR. BAILY’S RESIDENCE—SAND- HILLS—MOUND OF HUMAN BONES—RETURN TO LAHAINA—ONE OF OUR BOATS LOST— ISLAND OF KAHOOLAWE — SEMINARY OF LAHAINALUNA — DISADVANTAGES OF ITS POSITION—ITS ORIGINAL SYSTEM—CHANGES IN THE SYSTEM—ITS PROBABLE FAILURE —APPEARANCE OF THE SCHOLARS—IMPROVEMENTS PROPOSED IN IT—SURVEY OF THE COASTS OF LAHAINA—ITS POPULATION—CHURCH—DISTRICT OF WAILUKU—DISTRICT OF KULA—KING’S ENCOURAGEMENT OF THE CULTURE OF SUGAR—PERSEVERANCE OF THE NATIVES—LABOURS OF THE MISSIONARIES—POPULATION OF WAILUKU—TOUR OF
CONTENTS. ix
MESSRS. PICKERING, DRAYTON, AND ERACKENRIDGE—NORTH COAST OF MAUI—MOUNT HALEAKALA—MR. LANE AND MINOR’S PLANTATION—CAVE—CRATER OF HALEAKALA —WAILUKU PASS—INFLUENCE OF BOOKS ON THE NATIVES—NATIVE CHARACTER— REGENT KEKAULUOHI—LIEUTENANT BUDD DESPATCHED ON A SURVEY—WE TAKE LEAVE OF MAUI—LANAI—ICHTHYOLOGY—SURF AND TIDES—MOLOKAI— ARRIVAL OF THE VINCENNES AT HONOLULU—RETURN OF THE PORPOISE....................--251—277
CREIBAY eae lup irs Leeavalslele
PORPOISE SAILS FROM OAHU—MANUEL RODRIGUEZ—WALKER'S ISLAND — MANHII— ARATICA —SAKEN ISLAND—SEA-GULL GROUP— ISLAND OF BARCLAY DE TOLLY— WOLCONSKY—DEATH OF A KANAKA—TAWEREE—MARGARET’S ISLAND—FOUR CROWNS OF QUIROS—ARCHANGEL—ST. PABLO—INTERVIEW WITH THE NATIVES—RETURN TO ARATICA—RESULTS OF THE BORING—THEORY OF CORAL ISLANDS—TIDAL OBSERVA- TIONS—INHABITANTS OF ARATICA—CANOE SPOKEN—ARRIVAL AT TAHITI—DOMESTIC QUARRELS OF THE QUEEN—MEETING OF THE DISTRICT SCHOOLS—MEETING OF THE AUXILIARY SOCIETIES—DISTURBANCE OF THE MEETING—POLICE OF PAPIETI—AMERI- CAN COMMERCE AT TAHITI—PORPOISE LEAVES 'TAHITI—MEETS THE TRADES—FLINT’S ISLAND—STAVER'S ISLAND—PENRHYN’S ISLAND—ISLANDERS — THEIR LANGUAGE — THEIR TURBULENCE—APPEARANCE OF THE WOMEN—FEROCITY OF THE ISLANDERS— THEIR ARMS — THEIR CANOES — THEIR TALENT FOR HARANGUING — LIEUTENANT- COMMANDANT RINGGOLD RESOLVES TO RETURN—CURRENTS AND WINDS—ARRIVAL AT HONOLULU— RESULTS OF THE CRUISE — PORPOISE FOUND TO NEED REPAIR — EFFECTS OF THE LAPLACE TREATY—PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE—PRODUCTIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN GROUP—ITS FLORA—CLIMATE AND DISEASES.................281—307
© leh le ah IR, I
DEPARTURE FROM OAHU—SICKNESS OF THE CREW OF THE PORPOISE—SEARCH FOR UNKNOWN ISLANDS—CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT—BAR OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER—DETER- MINATION TO PROCEED TO THE NORTHWARD—DANGER OF THE VESSELS NEAR CAPE GRENVILLE—WRECK OF A JAPANESE JUNK—INDIAN CANOE—STRAITS OF JUAN DE FUCA—INDIANS VISIT THE SHIP—THEIR APPEARANCE—MODE OF TAKING WILD-FOWL —PROTECTION ISLAND — PORT DISCOVERY—INDIANS—THEIR MANNERS, ETC.—THEIR CANOES—THEIR WARS—GENERAL ORDER—WOODS AROUND PORT DISCOVERY—INDIAN MESSENGER=—INDIAN BURIAL-PLACES— DEPARTURE FROM PORT DISCOVERY — PORT TOWNSEND — PORT LAWRENCE — APPLE-TREE COVE — ADMIRALTY INLET — PUGET SOUND — ANCHORAGE AT NISQUALLY —VISIT FROM MR. ANDERSON AND CAPTAIN
VOL. IV. Cc
z CONTENTS.
M’NIEL — SCENERY AT NISQUALLY — PLAN OF OUR OPERATIONS — VISIT TO FORT NISQUALLY — MISSION — PUGET SOUND COMPANY — MOUNT RAINIER— PRESENT OF BULLOCKS FROM MR. ANDERSON—STEAMER BEAVER—LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S PARTY SET OUT—DEPARTURE OF CAPTAIN WILKES'S PARTY—RIVER NISQUALLY—CAMP AT SHUTE’S RIVER—BUTE PRAIRIE—CHICKEELES RIVER—COWLITZ FARM—MR. FORREST'S HOSPITALITY—CLIMATE OF COWLITZ—SIMON PLUMONDON—NATIVE MODE OF DRESS- ING LEATHER—EMBARKATION ON THE COWLITZ RIVER—ITS SHORES—SUPPOSED BEDS OF COAL— ENTRANCE INTO THE COLUMBIA RIVER — MOUNT COFFIN—OAK POINT —ST. HELEN’S REACH— TONGUE POINT—ASTORIA—EXCURSION TO POINT ADAMS— MISSIONARIES AT CLATSOP—CLATSOP VILLAGE — PUNISHMENT OF A MURDERER — VOYAGE TO VANCOUVER—TONGUE POINT —INDIAN MEDICINE-MAN—COFFIN ROCK— INDIAN MOURNING—WARRIOR POINT—CALLAPUYA—VILLAGE OF VANCOUVER — FORT VANCOUVER—DR. M’LAUGHLIN—COMPANY’S ESTABLISHMENT—BUSINESS TRANSACTED AT VANCOUVER—CONDITION OF THE COMPANY’S SERVANTS AND DEPENDANTS — HOSPITABLE RECEPTION OF THE MISSIONARIES—HALF-BREED CHILDREN — MORALS— CROPS — FARM— DAIRY FARM—OLD FORT VANCOUVER—GRIST AND SAW MILLS— MANUFACTURE OF AXES—SUDDEN RISE OF THE RIVER—PARTY OF YOUNG AMERI-
CHHRAGR. Takes xe
DEPARTURE FROM VANCOUVER—BANKS OF THE WILLAMETTE—BOAT-BUILDERS—OAK ISLANDS—FALLS OF THE WILLAMETTE — MISSIONARIES — SALMON-FISHERY — INDIAN VILLAGE—FLOODS OF THE RIVER—CHAMPOOING—MR. JOHNSON AND OTHER SETTLERS —THEIR DESIRE FOR LAWS—MICHAEL LA FRAMBOISE—MR. BACHELET— METHODIST MISSION — DR. BABCOCK —LANDS OF THE MISSION—CONFERENCE IN RELATION TO LAWS— VISIT THE “MILL”— PLANS OF THE MISSIONARIES — MR. HINES’S SELECTION OF LAND—EXTENT OF THE MISSIONARY FIELD—CROSSING OF THE WILLAMETTE —O’NEILL’S FARM— YAM HILLS—GAY'S RESIDENCE AND CHARACTER—FARM OF A SON OF DR. M’LAUGHLIN — FLOODS — YOUNG’S FARM—CATTLE IMPORTED FROM CALIFORNIA—BONES OF THE MASTODON—RETURN TO CHAMPOOING—VISIT FROM THE SETTLERS—ROCKY RIDGE—DR. BAILEY’S FARM—MRS. BAILEY—INDIAN TREATMENT OF THE SICK—WALKER'S FARM—BOAT-BUILDERS’ CAMP—RETURN TO VANCOUVER — MR, OGDEN AND HIS VOYAGEURS—NORTHERN POSTS OF THE COMPANY—ADVANTAGES OF THE TERRITORY FOR GRAZING—PRICE OF CATTLE—VALUE OF LABOUR—ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF THE WILLAMETTE COUNTRY —HABITS AND SPECIES OF THE SALMON—DWELLINGS OF THE INDIANS—THEIR GAMES OF CHANCE—KLACKAMUS VILLAGE—THEIR MODE OF BURIAL—THEIR MEDICINE-MEN—INDIAN PREJUDICES— THEY CAUSE THE MURDER OF MR. BLACK—MR. OGDEN OFFERS A CONVEYANCE TO COWLITZ—CHIEF OF AN EXTINCT TRIBE—REASONS FOR THE DECAY OF THE INDIAN
CONTENTS. rel
POPULATION — DEPARTURE FROM VANCOUVER—EMBARKATION ON THE COLUMBIA— ENTRANCE INTO THE COWLITZ—ARRIVAL AT COWLITZ FARM— MR. FORREST AND
THE CHRONOMETER—CHICKEELES RIVER AND INDIANS—RETURN TO NISQUALLY. 365—400
Jel IP IN 10) 1 OE
SCIENTIFIC OPERATIONS AT NISQUALLY — FACILITIES TENDERED BY MR. OGDEN — MR. DRAYTON ORDERED TO ACCOMPANY HIM—MR. DRAYTON’S PREVIOUS RESEARCHES — PREPARATIONS FOR THE EXPEDITION—BOATS— PACKAGES AND MODE OF TRANS- PORTATION —TRADE AT MR. OGDEN’S POSTS— DEPARTURE OF MR. DRAYTON FROM VANCOUVER — CASCADES— CASCADE MOUNTAINS—PORTAGES—GUMMING THE BOATS —SUNKEN FOREST — RATTLESNAKES — METHODIST MISSION — INDIANS WITHIN ITS SPHERE—THE DALLES—MODE OF CURING FISH THERE—MODE OF FISHING—DESCRIP- TION OF THE DALLES—SYSTEM OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY—PORTAGE AT THE DALLES—MISSIONARY EFFORTS—IMPROVIDENCE OF THE INDIANS— DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY—ITS CLIMATE—WISHAM—CHUTES RIVER—JOHN DAY’S RIVER—END OF THE WOODS—HIEROGLYPHIC ROCKS—BURIAL-PLACE—GRAND RAPIDS—WINDMILL ROCK —ARRIVAL OF MR. DRAYTON AT WALLAWALLA—CHARACTER AND CONDITION OF THE COMPANY'S SERVANTS—SEPARATION FROM MR. OGDEN — VISIT TO DR. WHITMAN — MISSIONARY STATIONS OF THE AMERICAN BOARD — WAIILAPTU—GRANDE RONDE— FLAG OF PEACE—CONDITION OF THE MISSION ARIES— CLIMATE—TREES—PROSPECTS OF THE MISSION—THEIR SCHOOL—INDIAN FARMING—BLUE MOUNTAINS—HOT WINDS— MODE OF FISHING AT WALLAWALLA—ARRIVAL OF INDIANS— FALL OF THE COLUMBIA —WALLAWALLA AND NEZ PERCE TRIBES—THEIR MODE OF DRESSING SKINS — MODE OF CARRYING THEIR CHILDREN — MEDICINE - WOMAN — CUSTOMS IN RELATION TO FEMALES—GREAT FALLS OF THE COLUMBIA—COMPARISON OF THE COLUMBIA AND SNAKE RIVERS—MR. DRAYTON LEAVES WALLAWALLA—INDIANS AT PRAYER—EXTOR- TION BY THE INDIANS—THEIR ATTEMPTS AT THEFT—RETURN OF MR. DRAYTON TO WANNGOUN151 3356.05 coco 6500. 64g0 Guo dob Lewseouo Sdubboo oes Wece eg eelne ee ce en eres cle ceccse ees 403—459
CAHVAS Pea hghts a Xelole
BAKERY AT NISQUALLY — PROGRESS OF THE SURVEYS— LOSS OF AN EYE-PIECE— FRUITLESS SEARCH FOR IT—SURVEY OF HOOD'S CANAL—CELEBRATION OF FOURTH OF JULY—VISIT FROM DR. M’LAUGHLIN— MOUNT RAINIER AND OTHER SNOWY MOUN- TAINS—EXPEDITION TO THE BUTE PRAIRIES—FARM OF THE COMPANY AT NISQUALLY —SURVEY OF PUGET SOUND—RETURN OF LIEUTENANT JOHNSON’S PARTY—DISADVAN- TAGES OF THE POST AT NISQUALLY—NISQUALLY INDIANS—LIEUTENANT JOHNSON’S
ea CONTENTS.
OPERATIONS—EQUIPMENT OF HIS PARTY—HIS GUIDE—HIS FIRST CAMP—HIS SECOND CAMP—PUYALLUP RIVER—DIFFICULT PATHS—LARGE ARBOR VITA TREES—SMALOCHO RIVER—LOSS OF CAMP EQUIPAGE—GREAT SIZE OF THE SPRUCE TREES—LA TETE MOUNTAIN—LITTLE PRAIRIE—CAMP AT THE EDGE OF THE SNOW—DISTANT VIEW OF MOUNT RAINIER— SUMMIT OF THE RIDGE — ACCIDENT TO THE CHRONOMETER — INDIANS DISMISSED —SMALOCHO RIVER— FIRE IN THE WOODS — YAKIMA TRIBE — INTERVIEW WITH ITS CHIEF—HE EXCHANGES HORSES—ANOTHER VIEW OF MOUNT RAINIER—SPOKANE INDIANS—YAKIMA RIVER—VERY ELEVATED GROUNDS— DESCENT TOWARDS THE COLUMBIA—COLUMBIA RIVER—PISCHOUS RIVER—INDIAN CULTIVATION —VIEW OF THE COLUMBIA — POINT DE BOIS—OKONAGAN INDIANS—HIGH PRAIRIE— MOUNT ST. PIERRE—FORT OKONAGAN—FORT THOMPSON—ARRIVAL OF MR. MAXWELL —FOOD OF THE INDIANS, AND OF THE COMPANY’S SERVANTS—AMUSEMENT OF THE INDIANS — DEPARTURE FROM FORT OKONAGAN — LIEUTENANT JOHNSON LOSES HIS WAY—GRASSY PRAIRIE—GRANDE COULEE— ARTIFICIAL HORIZON BROKEN—LIEUTE- NANT JOHNSON LEAVES THE PARTY—THE PARTY ARRIVES AT FORT COLVILLE — LIEUTENANT JOHNSON’S RIDE UP THE SPOKANE—MISSIONARY STATION OF CHIMI- KAINE—CORNELIUS, CHIEF OF THE SPOKANE TRIBE—SINGULAR PROPHECY—LIEUTE- NANT JOHNSON’S ARRIVAL AT FORT COLVILLE... ........-..... 0.020. 0002 00 e000 © 435—468
CH) AUR Hi oxolille
CONTINUATION OF LIEUTENANT JOHNSON’S TOUR—FORT COLVILLE—KETTLE FALLS— QUIARLPI INDIANS—HEIGHT OF FORT COLVILLE ABOVE THE SEA—ITS CLIMATE—ITS AGRICULTURE—SPOKANE INDIANS—THEIR MODE OF LIFE—THEIR PHYSICAL CHARAC- TER—THEIR DRESS—THEIR GOVERNMENT AND DOMESTIC RELATIONS—AUTHORITY OF THEIR CHIEFS—THEIR PUNISHMENTS— THEIR SUPERSTITIONS— THEIR CALENDAR — OPERATIONS OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY IN THE NORTH—OUTPOSTS OF COL- VILLE—FORT CHILCOTIN—FORT GEORGE—FORT THOMPSON—FORT ST. JAMES—NORTH- ERN INDIANS—TAKALI AND ATNAHS—THEIR DRESS—THEIR HABITATIONS—THEIR FOOD —THEIR MODE OF FISHING—THEIR FUNERAL RITES—THEIR MEDICINE-MEN—FRASER’S RIVER — LIEUTENANT JOHNSON’S PARTY LEAVES FORT COLVILLE — MISSIONARY STATION AT CHIMIKAINE — CHARACTER OF THE NEIGHBOURING INDIANS — THEIR TREATMENT OF FEMALES—THEIR BURIALS—THEIR MARRIAGES—DEPARTURE FROM THE MISSION—ADVENTURE AT A CAMP OF SPOKANE INDIANS—INDIANS TRAVELLING —KOOSKOOSKEE INDIANS—MISSION AT LAPWAI—MR. SPALDING—HIS EXERTIONS TO CIVILIZE THE INDIANS—FREQUENT VISITS OF THE OREGON INDIANS TO THE UNITED STATES — DEPARTURE FROM LAPWAI—INDIAN FARMS — HALEFE-BREEDS — MIGRATION OF THE BUFFALO —SNAKE RIVER—SANDY DESERT —C@UR D'ALENE—NEZ PERCE INDIANS—INDIANS AROUND LAPWAI—SAW-MILL—DECREASE OF WILD ANIMALS—MR. HALE’'S TOUR AND REMARKS—FALLS OF THE PELUSE—LEGEND RELATING TO THEM—
CONTENTS. xii
WALLAWALLA—LANGUAGES OF INDIANS— YAKIMA RIVER — MISERABLE GROUP OF SQUAWS—SLOW COMMUNICATION OF NEWS IN OREGON—NUMEROUS RATTLESNAKES —SPIPEN RIVER—TIDIAS’S CAMP— PRAIRIES— LITTLE PRAIRIE—SMALOCHO RIVER — RETURN TO NISQUALLY—EASTERN INDIANS OF OREGON — BLACKFEET — SHOSHONES— CROWS—BONACKS—YOUTAS—TRIBES ALLIED TO THE BONACKS— MONKEY INDIANS — APACHES—PRESSURE OF THE TRIBES TOWARDS THE SOUTH_ITS PROBABLE CAUSES. 471—504
CO EL AN 12 MELD, JS) CITY,
RETURN FROM THE SURVEYS—NEW LAND EXPEDITION FITTED OUT—LEAVE-TAKING — DEPARTURE FROM NISQUALLY — ANXIETY RESPECTING THE PEACOCK — PRAISE- WORTHY SPIRIT OF THE OFFICERS AND CREW—VASHON’S ISLAND—NEW DUNGENESS —THE PORPOISE JOINS THE VINCENNES—OPERATIONS OF THE PORPOISE—COMMENCE- MENT BAY—PORT ORCHARD—PORT MADISON—CATHOLIC MISSION —METEOR—PENN’S COVE—GOOD EFFECTS OF THE MISSIONARY EFFORTS — FORTIFICATIONS OF THE INDIANS—MINERAL SPRING—PORT GARDNER—SACHET INDIANS—THEIR DRESS—THEIR DISEASES—DECEPTION PASSAGE—PASSAGE INTO BELLINGHAM BAY—INDIAN TRIBES— FRASER’S RIVER—PLANS OF FURTHER OPERATIONS—BOAT EXPEDITION ACROSS THE STRAITS—NEWS OF THE LOSS OF THE PEACOCK—CHANGE OF PLANS—MESSAGE SENT TO ASTORIA—VINCENNES AND PORPOISE SAIL FROM NEW DUNGENESS — PORT SCAR- BOROUGH — CLASSET INDIANS—THEIR MODE OF TAKING WHALES—DEPARTURE FROM THE STRAITS OF DE FUCA—DE FUCA’S PILLAR—PORPOISE PARTS COMPANY — SOUND- INGS ON THE COAST — CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT — SHIP OROZIMBO — MEETING WITH CAPTAIN HUDSON—SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE COLUMBIA RIVER—DETAILS OF THE PEACOCK’S DISASTER —WANT OF GOOD PILOTS — PERILOUS POSITION OF THE PEA- COCK’S BOATS—ALL THE OFFICERS AND CREW SAFELY LANDED—THEIR KIND RECEP- TION BY THE OFFICERS OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY AND THE MISSIONARIES— NEW DISPOSITION OF THE SQUADRON — PORPOISE ENTERS THE COLUMBIA RIVER— VINCENNES SAILS FOR SAN IMT AINTCMSIGD), 40.20 so co poncoacdacogo no6ben Sane sooo onanen ociNTE_SOH
VOL. IV. D
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
WO I AO WLIO I We
PLATES. KaMEHAMEHA, Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by Welch and Walter, Patt, Oanv. Sketched by A. T, Agate. Engraved by J. B. Neagle, Hanapere VALLEY. Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. Andrews, Turur Trees, Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. A. Rolph, Temete, Karn. Sketched by T. R. Peale. Engraved by F. Humphreys, Moxku-a-wE0-wEo. Sketched by C. Wilkes, U. S. N. Engraved by J. Andrews, Crater, Kitavra. Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by Jordan and Halpin, Camp on Penputum Peak. Sketched by C. Wilkes, U. S. N. Engraved by N. Gimbrede,
Crater or Moxv-a-wEo-wro. Sketched by C. Wilkes, U.S. N. Engraved by J. Andrews,
Kinavea. Sketched by C. Wilkes, U.S. N. Engraved by Sherman and Smith,
Watts or Crater, Kizavea. Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. F. E. Prudhomme,
KEKavLvonr. Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by Welch and Walter,
Craver or Hateakata. Sketched by J. Drayton, Engraved by J. Andrews,
ConcomeEty’s Tome. Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by W. E. Tucker,
Cuinoox Loner. Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. W. Dodson, Wreck or THE Peacock. Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by T. House, VIGNETTES. Waituxu Fatts. Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. I. Pease, CuickrEtes Fisnery. Sketched by C. Wilkes, U. S. N. Engraved by T. House,
Fatts or tae Wittamerre. Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by Jordan and Halpin,
Xvl
Srone Quorts. Por-Eatine. Coox’s MonuMENT. CALABASHES. Penputum PEak. KeaweEEuv. Biowine Cone. Lava Fiow.
Sanp-HI.ts. Panpanus TREE. Lava Jer. CaTrLe-PEN.
Episte Fern. Native Howse. FIsH-HOOKs.
Fort VANCOUVER. Rockine CRADLE. Inpran Dicer. Mrsston House. Fisnine Hors. DALues.
Curtp’s Heaps,
Forr WaLtawaLla.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
WOOD-CUTS.
From the Collection.t Engraved by J. J. Butler, Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. J. Butler, Drawn by T. R. Peale.t Engraved by J. H. Manning, From the Collection. Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert, Drawn by C. Wilkes, U.S. N. Engraved by R.S. Gilbert, Drawn by C. Wilkes, U.S. N. Engraved by R.S. Gilbert, Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert, Drawn by C. Wilkes, U.S. N. Engraved by T. H. Mumford, Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. J. Butler, Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. J. Butler, Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert, Drawn by Wm. D. Brackenridge. Engraved by R. 8S. Gilbert, Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. J. Butler, Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. J. Butler, Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert, Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. J. Butler, Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by T. H. Mumford, Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by R.S. Gilbert, Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R.S. Gilbert, Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. J. Butler, Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by T. H. Mumford, Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert, Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,
Inp1aw Costume (maLE). Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. J. Butler, InpiaN CostumE (FEMALE). Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Mustrc. Inp1an LopGe. Mowunps.
FIsH-HOOKS. Mount RatInier.
Mount Rainier.
Inpran BaskeETs. Mart Hor. TaToucHEe GEORGE, De Fuca’s Pituar.
Hawatran Grovp.
Drawn by J. Drayton.
Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert,
Drawn by C. Wilkes, U.S. N. Engraved by T. H. Mumford,
From the Collection.| Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert,
Drawn by R. E. Johnson, U.S. N. Engraved by R.S. Gilbert,
Drawn by R. E. Johnson, U.S. N. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,
From the Collection.t Engraved by J. H. Manning,
Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by R. 8S. Gilbert,
Drawn by C. Wilkes, U.S. N. Engraved by Clarke,
Drawn by C. Wilkes, U. S. N. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,
MAP.
Engraved by Sherman and Smith. Title.
Those marked with a +, were drawn on the wood by J. H. Manning.
51
92 100 115 155 161 174
198 204 206 210
218 247 277 307 349 361 392 400 410 411 415 417 425
Gist ale i Whats Ik
CONTENTS.
ARRIVAL OF THE KING AT HONOLULU—OUR VISIT TO HIM—KEKAULUOHI—DWELLINGS AND GARDENS OF FOREIGN RESIDENTS—DWELLINGS OF THE MISSION ARIES—MISSIONARY PRESS—SEAMEN’S CHAPEL— POLITICAL INTERCOURSE WITH FOREIGN NATIONS—MR. RICHARDS ENGAGED AS DIPLOMATIC AGENT—SUPREME COUNCIL OF GOVERNMENT— SECOND INTERVIEW WITH THE KING—HISTORY OF THE EVENTS THAT LED TO THE LAPLACE TREATY—FIRST ARRIVAL OF CATHOLIC PRIESTS—THEY ARE HOSPITABLY RECEIVED—THEY ARE SUSPECTED OF PROMOTING A REBELLION, AND EXPELLED—RUS- SELL TREATY—ATTEMPT TO INTRODUCE PRIESTS UNDER ITS SANCTION—UNITED ACTION OF CAPTAINS DU PETIT THOUARS AND BELCHER— MORE PRIESTS ARRIVE— PENAL LAWS AGAINST CATHOLICS ENACTED—THEY ARE REPEALED AT THE INSTANCE OF THE AMERICAN MISSIONARIES—ARRIVAL OF CAPTAIN LAPLACE—HIS MANIFESTO— HIS DEMANDS—HIS PROSCRIPTION OF THE MISSIONARIES—CONDUCT OF THE FOREIGN RESIDENTS, AND OF THE NATIVE CHIEFS—SIGNATURE OF THE TREATY —LAPLACE DEMANDS AND OBTAINS A COMMERCIAL TREATY—HE LANDS IN ARMS TO CELEBRATE MASS—CONSEQUENCES OF THE LAPLACE TREATY—THE KING’S FEELINGS IN RELATION TO IT—HIS DESIRE TO BE RECOGNISED BY THE UNITED STATES—HIS REMONSTRANCE TO THE FRENCH GOVERNMENT—STATE OF CATHOLICISM—WRITTEN CONSTITUTION OF HAWAII—ADMINISTRATION OF THE LAWS—CRIMINAL PROCESS—ANCIENT LAWS—SUC- CESSION TO THE THRONE—FEUDAL TENURES—PU NISHMENTS—TABOOS—PROMULGATION OF LAWS—ORIGIN OF FIEFS—DIVISION OF LANDS—EFFECTS OF THE NEW LAWS—TAXES —REVENUES—EXEMPTION FROM TAX—CRIMES—HAWAIIAN MYTHOLOGY—TRADITIONS— ASTRONOMY—CALENDAR—IDEA OF ECLIPSES—KNOWLEDGE OF NAVIGATION—FEATS IN SWIMMING—SOCIAL ATTACHMENT AND TIES—INDOLENCE ASCRIBED TO THE NATIVES— THEIR AMUSEMENTS—HOLUA—PLAYING IN THE SURF—DANCES — CARDS — SEE-SAW— NATIVE PHYSICIANS AND MEDICINE,
NARRATIVE
OF
TA, Sexe ONG ox Pa EOIN,
CoH ASP en Ry a
EVA Wir Sie AG NING eR OnUee:
1840.
Tue king, Kamehameha III., who had given orders that he should be sent for as soon as the Vincennes arrived, reached Honolulu on the 29th September, from Maui. The next day I waited upon him, ac- companied by our consul, Mr. Brinsmade, and by many of the officers and naturalists, at his quarters near the fort. A soldier dressed in a scarlet uniform stood on guard at the door. We were ushered into the audience-chamber, and presented to the king, whom we found seated in the midst of his retinue. The apartment was composed of two large rooms with low ceilings, communicating by folding doors. On the right of the king was Kekauluohi, a daughter of Kamehameha I., who acts as prime minister; and there were also present, among others, Kekuanaoa, the governor of Oahu, Mr. Richards, who is the king’s interpreter and adviser, Haalilio, John Young, and the officers of the body-guard.
The king was dressed in a blue coat, white pantaloons, and vest. We afterwards understood that he had prepared himself to receive us in full costume, but on seeing us approaching in undress uniform, he had taken off his robes of state.
4 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
The appearance of the king is prepossessing: he is rather robust, above the middle height, has a good expression of countenance, and pleasing manners.
The person who attracted our attention most, was Kekauluohi. This lady is upwards of six feet in height; her frame is exceedingly large and well covered with fat. She was dressed in yellow silk, with enormously large gigot sleeves, and wore on her head a tiara of beautiful yellow feathers interspersed with a few of a scarlet colour.* Above the feathers appeared a large tortoise-shell comb, that confined her straight black hair. Her shoulders were covered with a richly- embroidered shawl of scarlet crape. She sat in a large arm-chair, over which was thrown a robe made of the same kind of yellow feathers as decked her tiara. Her feet were encased in white cotton stockings and men’s shoes. She was altogether one of the most remarkable-looking personages I have ever seen.
The governor was handsomely dressed in a uniform of blue and gold.
The conversation was carried on with ease through the interpreta- tion of Mr. Richards, and left upon our minds a favourable impression of the intelligence of the royal family of these islands. One thing was certain, namely, that, in regard to personal size, they are unsur- passed by any family that has ever come under my notice.
I next returned the visits I had received from the foreign residents, in which duty I was accompanied by our consul. I found many of them living in very comfortable stone houses, which were surrounded with young plantations of ornamental shrubs and trees. These plan- tations, with their gardens, are kept in a thriving state by means of irrigation. ‘The water for this purpose is raised by windmills, that work pumps, from wells about ten feet in depth. It was represented to me that the water in these wells rose and fell with the flow and ebb of the tide; but after frequent trials of that in the rear of the house which I occupied, I could detect no variation greater than an inch or two. ‘The wells are sunk through the bed of coral on which the town is built, and water is every where found beneath it. ‘The
* These feathers are among the most celebrated productions of these islands, and some idea of their cost may be formed when it is stated that each bird yields only a few, and that some thousands are required to form a head-dress. The wreath worn by Kekauluohi, was valued at $250, and her robe at $2,500. The birds (Melithreptes pacifica) are taken by means of birdlime, made from the pisonia, and the catching of them is practised as a trade by the mountaineers. The wearing of these feathers is a symbol of high rank.
HAWAIIAN GROUP. 5
water is not perfectly fresh, and many persons have that which they drink, brought from the valley of Nuuanu.
I also had the pleasure of visiting the missionaries; and as many misrepresentations have been published, and much misunderstanding exists, relative to their domiciles, I trust I may be excused if I give a short description of their interior, to set the matter at rest. It will I think be sufficient to satisfy any one that they are not as luxurious in their furniture as has been sometimes represented. ‘Their houses are generally one story and a half high, situated fifteen or twenty paces within an unpretending gate, and the garden is surrounded by adobe walls about seven or eight feet high. Some of the houses are of stone, but most of them are of wood; they are from twenty to thirty feet square, and twenty feet high, and have the appearance of having been added to as the prosperity of the mission increased. The front door opens into the principal room, which is covered with a mat or common ingrain carpeting, and furnished with a table, a few windsor chairs, a rocking-chair, and sofa, all of wood. There is a very high mantel, but no fire-place, the latter not being needed. On the mantel are placed four glass lamps, each with one burner, and in the centre a small china vase, with a bunch of flowers in it. Several coloured scriptural prints hang on the walls about a foot below the ceiling ; on the table were a few devotional books.
The eating-room adjoins the principal room, and in one corner stands a cupboard, or an old sideboard, very much the worse for wear. This contained the common earthenware used at meals. A native girl, or woman, is all the “help;” and both the master and mistress take a part in many of the domestic duties. As to their fare, it is plain, simple, and wholesome, and always accompanied with a hearty welcome and cheerful, contented faces,—at least, I found it so. ‘The salaries of all, both clerical and secular members, are the same, namely, four hundred dollars for a family. How it is possible for them to clothe and maintain a family on such a stipend at Hono- lulu, [am unable to conceive. They receive no other compensation, nor are they allowed to hold any property for themselves, not even a cow. All must belong to the mission, and be paid for by it.
To several of the missionaries I feel indebted for unsolicited kindnesses, and I spent many agreeable hours in their society. I must bear testimony that I saw nothing but a truly charitable and Christian bearing towards others throughout my intercourse with them, and heard none but the most charitable expressions towards
VOL. Iv. 2
6 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
their assailants. Heedless of the tongue of scandal, they pursued their duties with evenness of temper, and highly laudable good-will.
Near the. missionaries’ dwellings is their printing establishment, under the superintendence of Mr. Rogers. Here they have three presses, which are generally in active employment. ‘The workmen are all natives, and, from Mr. Rogers’s account, they work very steadily, during the hours of labour, throughout the year. This occupation is considered as the road to preferment; for the know- ledge and habits of industry they acquire in it naturally raise them above their fellows, and they are soon required for the wants of the country, either in teaching schools or other employments under the government.
I was told that upwards of four reams of paper are printed daily, affording an extensive circulation of books in the native language. Eleven thousand copies of the whole Bible have been printed, and two weekly papers are published, one in English, called the Polyne- sian, the other in the Hawaiian language, which the natives generally read. ‘They have likewise a book-bindery, under the direction of the society. Many tracts are also published, some of which are by native authors. Of these I cannot pass at least one without naming hin. This is David Maro, who is highly esteemed by all who know him, and who lends the missionaries his aid, in mind as well as example, in ameliorating the condition of his countrymen, and checking licen- tiousness. At the same time he sets an example of industry, by farming with his own hands, and manufactures from his sugar-cane an excellent molasses.
Though not actually connected with the mission, the Seaman’s Chapel, and its pious and enlightened pastor, the Rev. Mr. Diell, assist In doing great good among the sailors who frequent the port. The chapel is a neat wooden building, and is chiefly frequented by the foreign residents and sailors in port. From its cupola, on the Sabbath, always waves the Bethel flag; and it is generally well attended. The Rev. Mr. Diell, to the regret of all, was about return- ing home. He was in the last stage of consumption, but hoped to reach his native land before his dissolution, which he felt and knew was rapidly approaching. I regretted to hear that in this hope he was disappointed, having died on the homeward passage. He was truly a pattern of resignation, and was beloved by the whole commu- nity. He had done much, I have been told, to soften the asperities between the contending factions, and to arrest the course of vice,
HAWAIIAN GROUP. 7
which, on his arrival, he found stalking abroad, regardless of moral laws, and setting at nought all those enacted by the government for the protection of the peace and quietness of the well-disposed, as well as for punishing those who were guilty of crime.
As the natives, under the tuition of the missionaries, emerged from barbarism, instead of deriving encouragement from their intercourse with foreigners, difficulties were thrown in the way. The chief agents im the vexations to which the government has been exposed, are the designing individuals who hold the situation of consuls of the two great Kuropean powers; and through their baleful influence the difficulties have been continually increasing, until, finally, these islands and their government have been forced upon the attention of the whole civilized world. All the laws and regulations established by the kings and chiefs for repressing immorality and vice, were not only derided, but often set at open defiance, because they clashed with the interests of some of the individuals settled here. If attempts were made to enforce them, official remonstrances were resorted to, accompanied by threats of punishment. As this, for a long time, did not follow, the matter came to be considered as a systematic course of bullying, which soon lost its effect, and remained unheeded. When these idle threats failed to effect their object, the new one of the arrival of a man-of-war was held out asa terror. In these disputes the missionaries seldom took a part, even in the way of advice, and left the chiefs to their own guidance. They did not feel themselves competent to give advice upon international questions, and, besides, considered them as of a temporal character; for which reason they believed it their duty to abstain from any connexion with the disputes. They could not, however, avoid being as much surprised as the chiefs themselves were, at the continually renewed difficulties which were made by these troublesome officials, and which there was nothing in the laws or regulations to justify.
As to the threat of the coming of a man-of-war, the natives rather looked to it as the sure termination of the vexations to which they were exposed. ‘They had formed their opinion of the character and probable course of action of the naval officers of either of the two great powers from the visit of Lord Byron in H. B. M. frigate Blonde. This vessel had been the bearer of the bodies of the late King Liho- hho and his wife from England, and her commander had made a most favourable impression upon the chiefs and people. They there-
8 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
fore expected that on the arrival of another man-of-war, all existing difficulties would be removed, and that their good intentions and strict adherence to justice would be made manifest. In this expectation they were disappointed ; the British naval commanders who came afterwards were not Byrons, and were, with one or two exceptions, the willing tools of the designing consul. Influenced by his erroneous representations, they demanded apologies and concessions, and en- deavoured to dictate treaties. ‘The regent and chiefs resisted these demands, and many disagreeable interviews occurred.
England was not the only nation whose ships of war were brought to aid in overawing the natives. A Frenchman, who claimed the title of consul, although not recognised as such by the king, persuaded the captain of a French frigate to insist upon his being acknowledged as a government agent. ‘Thus while this half-civilized community was struggling to make advances in morals and religion, French and English men-of-war, alternately, and occasionally in concert, did all in their power to break down the laws and regulations by which alone the union of the native barbarism with the worst vices of civili- zation could be prevented.
In this state of things it became evident to the king and chiefs that they were in want of information in relation to international law, and they in consequence desired to obtain a competent person to give them advice on that subject. or this purpose they endeavoured to procure a suitable counsellor from the United States. Failing in this attempt, they requested the Rev. Mr. Richards, one of the missionaries, to undertake this duty.
The missionaries, as a body, seem to have thought. it a duty to abstain from meddling with any temporal] matters, but Mr. Richards was prevailed upon to serve. As respects the internal policy of the islands, no better guide than this gentleman could possibly have been chosen. But like the other missionaries he was but little versed and had no experience in the affairs of government. He was unused to the petty squabbling of the foreign officials, and his mind was far above the ignoble task of disputing with the revilers of all law and religion.
I had the pleasure of becoming intimately acquainted with Mr. Richards, in his private capacity, and enjoyed an opportunity of judg- ing as to the manner in which he performed his public functions; and I cannot but felicitate the government and people of Hawaii upon their
HAWAIIAN GROUP. 9
fortune in obtaining the services of one who has made such exertions in their behalf, and who is so well qualified for the responsible situation he holds.
Mr. Richards had, as missionary, been for years a resident of these islands, and was thus in close connexion with the king and chiefs in their spiritual concerns. That they should have desired his counsel in their temporal affairs, is a strong proof of the affection and esteem with which they regarded him, and is alike creditable to his character and the soundness of their judgment. It was not, however, to be received as an evidence of any undue influence of the missiona- ries in political questions; and from a close examination I am satisfied that no such influence exists. Mr. Richards, since his appointment, has no voice in council, and is merely an adviser on such questions as the council may consider as demanding an acquaintance with the usages of civilized nations.
The council, in which the government is in fact vested, is composed of thirteen persons ranking as chiefs of the highest order, four of whom are females.
When any subject demands their consideration, the facts and reasons, pro and con, are fully laid before the council, in a compre- hensive and simple manner, and the vote and decision of its members are had, without any further recourse to Mr. Richards. The subject is always acted upon with great deliberation, and frequently with much discrimination and judgment; for not only are the chiefs a strong-minded people, but the female members of the council are also remarkable in this respect, and all appear desirous of doing what is right and proper.
An anecdote of what occurred at one of their deliberations, will, I think, illustrate their simple mode of coming to a proper decision, and show that when they are made to understand that any act or regu- lation will prove unjust, they are quite desirous to revise their own intended vote.
When they had under consideration the law relative to the descent of property, and previous to its final passage, each was, as usual, asked whether it should become a law. All had assented to its passage except one of the female members, who, when the interrogatory was put to her, laughed, but gave no answer. On being pressed, she said, “The law to which you have assented, has it not passed? My vote is not then needed.” But, supposing from this, that she had reasons for withholding her vote, they pressed her to speak, when she asked,
VOL. Iv. 3
10 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
“Does not this proposed law give one-third of the property to the king, and two-thirds to the heirs of every one?” Yes. “Is this just? How differently does this affect one or two of the chiefs and myself! ‘They have no children; I have four. My heirs will suffer, theirs will not. This is not right.”
They saw the subject in a new light, and at once determined to adjourn, for the purpose of thinking the affair over. They finally came to the conclusion, that all the property of those who had chil- dren should go to the offspring, but that of the property of those who had no direct heirs, the king should be entitled to one-third. Thus stands the law at present.
On the 2d October, I received a visit from Mr. Richards, who com- municated to me the desire of the king that I should visit him. In conformity with this request, I called upon him, accompanied by Captain Hudson. Although I had departed, after my first visit, highly prepossessed in his favour, I was not prepared to find him so easy and gentlemanly in his manners as he now appeared. He was alone when he received us, and in a few minutes, we found that he was able to express himself very intelligibly in English, and was quick in comprehending what was said to him.
He was found at one end of the large grass-house built for him by the Governor Kekuanaoa.* He received us in a friendly manner. From the representations that had been made to me, I had been led to believe that the king was not only dull of apprehension, but had little disposition to engage in or talk of the affairs of government; I found him, on the contrary, exhibiting an intimate acquaintance with them. He entered fully and frankly in the discussion of all the matters in relation to which disputes had arisen between him and foreign nations ; and I, on the other hand, was desirous to elicit his views with regard to the difficulties he had for the last year or two encountered, and learn the feelings he had experienced in the arduous situations in which he had been placed.
He spoke of the manner in which foreigners had obtruded them- selves into the affairs of his government, so that no one of its acts was permitted to pass without his being called, in a rude and unceivil manner, to account for it. He stated that he found great difficulty in
* This building is about sixty feet long by forty feet wide, and contains only one room, which may, however, be divided by movable screens into several apartments. The floor was covered with mats. The whole was well adapted to the heat of the climate, and the smell of the sweet-scented grass was agreeable and refreshing.
HAWAIIAN GROUP. lat
acting correctly ; for foreigners, whom he and his chiefs had treated with every possible attention, had, from interested motives, urged measures upon him which he knew to be wrong, and had, in many cases, abused the confidence he had placed in them. He expressed the strongest desire to do right, and to protect his people from evil influences and the encroachments of designing persons, by wholesome laws and regulations.
The treaty which he had been compelled to sign by Captain La- place, of the French frigate Artemise, was alluded to by him in terms of mortification: he regretted that he had done an act and yielded to a measure which had rendered nugatory his municipal laws and regulations.
To explain this part of the conversation, it will be necessary to relate some particulars of the circumstances which led to this inter- ference of a French commander with the laws and ordinances of a weak, and, as I think it will appear clearly, an unoffending people.
There has always been a party among the foreign residents op- posed to the improvements which are taking place in the morals and habits of the Hawaiian people under the influence of the missiona- ries. My position enabled me to hear the statements of both parties, and although the heat of the dispute had in some degree abated, mutual complaints were still made. By a comparison of the two statements, the truth does not appear difficult to be reached.
The party opposed to the missionaries were anxious to counteract the influence they ascribe to them; and for this purpose, when they saw the old heathen practices and vicious habits of the people rapidly vanishing, bethought themselves of the Roman Catholic priests, and seem to have desired to excite a sectarian war as one of the most effectual means of opposing the progress of the Protestant missionary cause. For this purpose they held out inducements to those priests to enter and establish themselves in the Hawaiian territory. This was in direct defiance of the law, which had made the Protestant the established and solely tolerated religion of the state.
This principle, by which all forms of worship except one were excluded, seems to have been adopted by the king and chiefs, in the belief that two creeds would have tended to distract the minds of the people, and produce contention and confusion. What share the mis- sionaries had in bringing them to this conclusion, I found it impossible clearly to ascertain; but by information obtained from those best informed on the subject, I was satisfied that the accounts of the persecutions undergone by Catholic converts, and of the cruelties
12 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
said to have been endured by them, were much exaggerated. Nor were these in any case to be imputed directly to the missionaries, who had in many instances endeavoured to prevent the infliction of punishment for religious reasons. Of cruel treatment for this cause, I could learn no authenticated instance, nor did I meet with any one who could adduce facts from his own knowledge, although I sought information from those inimical to the missionaries, as well as from those who favour them. ‘That the missionaries and their proselytes entertain apprehensions of evil from the propagation of Romanism is true, but I found less illiberality on the subject of religious forms existing in the Hawaiian Islands than in any place I visited on the cruise; less than is entertamed by opposing sects in our country ; and far less than exists in Catholic countries against those who hold the Protestant faith.
In spite of the prohibitory law, it is a notorious and indisputable fact, that the first Catholic priests who landed in 1827 were kindly treated by all classes of natives, and by the Protestant missionaries. The American mission even furnished them with the books they had printed to enable them to learn the Hawaiian language. When, however, mass was first publicly celebrated, the converted natives in general took an aversion to that mode of worship, as it appeared to them a step backwards towards their ancient idolatry; and the very circumstance which, had they continued heathen, might have been an inducement to adopt, served now to alienate them from it.
No serious disturbances in relation to religion occurred until 1830, when the Catholic missionaries were considered to have been engaged in promoting the attempted rebellion of Lilika. ‘The Catholics, for this reason, were associated in the minds of the rulers with the opponents of good order and the violators of the laws. The chiefs, in consequence, became jealous of their religion, and of their attempts to promulgate their doctrines. Whatever may have been the truth of the suspicion of the interference of the Catholic priests with the affairs of government, there can be no doubt that the proceedings which followed were dictated by reasons of state, not by sectarian religious feelings. It was determined to expel the priests from the island, and they were sent to California, at the expense of the government, in a vessel fitted out for the purpose.
No further attempt was made by the Catholics to propagate their doctrines in these islands until 1836, when the Rev. Mr. Walsh landed secretly. When his calling became known, he was ordered to depart; but, after various excuses for delay, finally obtained
HAWATIAN GROUP. 13
permission to remain, on condition that he would not attempt to propagate his religion.
In November of the same year, Captain Russell, of H. B. M. ship Acteon, made a treaty with Kamehameha III. One of its articles provided for the protection of British subjects and property; and under this treaty with a nation whose established religion is Pro- testant, it was resolved that an attempt should be made to introduce Catholic missionaries again, by making use of the British flag, and by claiming that at least one of them, an Irishman, came under the protection of its provisions.
The brig Clementine arrived, under British colours, having a number of Catholic priests on board, who landed. Great excitement was at once produced in Oahu, and they were forthwith ordered to re-embark and depart in the same vessel. This they refused, but were compelled by threats to comply, no force, however, being used. Although under English colours, the vessel was owned by the French consul; but he, when asked by the authorities of Oahu to interfere, denied that he had any control over the vessel, asserting that she had been chartered.
The Catholic priests having been compelled to re-embark, the vessel was abandoned by the owners and those who had chartered her. Her colours were hauled down by the French, and burnt in the street by the British consul, and a large amount of damages was claimed from the government, on the plea that she had been forcibly seized.
This transaction had hardly occurred, when the French frigate Venus, Captain Du Petit Thouars, and H. B. M. ship Sulphur, Captain Belcher, arrived. ‘The two consuls did all in their power to make it appear that a gross violation of the rights of their respective citizens had been committed. ‘The scenes which followed were dis- graceful; for instance, the English consul so far forgot himself as to shake his fist in the face of Kinau, a female, second in rank to the king ; and Captain Belcher did the same to the Rev. Mr. Bingham, the head of the American mission, whom he threatened to hang at the yardarm. The only offence of the reverend gentleman was his having acted as interpreter, and being supposed to exercise an in- fluence over the government. Although this threat was no more than idle bravado, it produced much excitement.
A treaty was made with the French, and new articles were added to the Russell treaty. Both commanders promised that the Catholic missionaries should depart at the earliest opportunity, and
VOL. Iv. 4
14 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
should not preach or attempt to propagate their religion. Under the French treaty, however, it was afterwards claimed that the mis- sionaries had the right of teaching their tenets, although both the officers had thus formally acknowledged that no such right could exist against the consent and without the permission of the Hawaian government.
Some months after these transactions, the provisor of the Bishop of Nicopolis, with some assistants, arrived at Oahu, when permission to land was refused him, and the vessel was not permitted to enter the port, until the owner had given bond that the priests should not be landed. ‘These priests, together with those already under a stipulation to embark as soon as they could procure a passage, purchased a schooner, in which they sailed for the island of Ascen- sion, in the Caroline Group.
The king and chiefs now thought it necessary, for the purpose of securing themselves against any future annoyance, to enact a law making it penal for any one to teach or propagate the Romish faith. Under this law some of the natives were fined and otherwise punished. Every possible endeavour was made to throw the odium of this law on the American mission, and it was asserted that its enactment had been procured through their influence over the king and chiefs. ‘The falsehood of this charge became apparent when, eighteen months afterwards, the repeal of so much of the law as authorized the infliction of corporal punishment, was effected through the instrumentality of the missionaries, and religious toleration was proclaimed. If any blame is to be imputed to them, it is because they did not at an earlier period take steps to obtain the withdrawal of an ordinance so much at variance with the institutions of the country whence they came, where alone, of nations professing Chris- tianity, toleration is an unknown term, because all sects stand upon an equal footing. It is possible that they had warm and excited feelings to contend with; but if they had it in their power to obtain the repeal of the law, under which they must have heard that much severity was practised, at an earlier period, there can be no excuse for their delay. ‘This supineness, whether apparent or real, has naturally excited censure, both in Hawaii and in the United States, and has served to give ashadow of probability to the numerous falsehoods and misstatements that have been published in relation to their conduct in other matters. Even the severity that was reported to have been practised while the law continued in force, was far less
HAWAIIAN GROUP. 15
than is usually represented, and the reports in relation to it seem generally to have been much exaggerated.
The arrival of Captain Laplace, in the French frigate Artemise, brought about a crisis, for which it appears that no party was prepared. It was generally supposed in Honolulu, that the mission of this officer was the consequence of representations made by a secret agent of the Romish missionaries, by the name of Murphy, who is suspected of having informed the French government that a persecution was still going on against French Catholics and citizens. How far this could be true will appear from the fact that the number of the subjects of France in these islands is fowr, including the consul, but excluding his family, who are English; how valuable the com- merce which required a frigate to protect it, will be properly appre- ciated, when it is stated, that only three French vessels had visited the islands during the two years previous to the mission of Captain Laplace, and that the value of their cargoes was no more than $20,000 or $30,000. Only one French vessel arrived in the year which followed the transactions I am about to refer to.
That some gross misstatement had been made, is evident from the tenor of Captain Laplace’s manifesto,* in which he states that he had been specially sent to put an end to the ill-treatment received by French subjects, and to secure them the free right of their worship. He ascribes the fancied evils of which he complains to the evil course of the American missionaries, and charges the king with having been misled by “ perfidious counsellors.”
How far this opinion was well founded, will appear by a letter ad- dressed on this subject to the king, by the American consul, and his reply. Ideem it an act of justice to the American missionaries, that these official documents should be made public, as the most authentic testimony that can be procured on the subject, and which I am of opinion must command full belief.+
So far as can be learned from Captain Laplace’s manifesto, his in- structions had reference only to the subject of religious toleration; he was to insure the future good treatment of French Catholics, and of the natives converted by them. He demanded, in addition, as surety for the future good conduct of the king and chiefs, the sum of $20,000, for which it has been alleged he has not accounted; and the French
* This will be found in Appendix I. t This correspondence will also be found in Appendix II.
16 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
consul contrived to turn the intervention of Captain Laplace to his own personal advantage, as will presently be seen.
The promulgation of this manifesto, and the exorbitant demand with which it was accompanied, produced great consternation at Ho- nolulu, and throughout the island of Oahu. The foreign residents were in alarm for their property, which was exposed on the one side to the dangers of a bombardment, and on the other to the pilfering of the natives; the natives were dismayed at the demand of a sum they were unable to pay; while the missionaries, with their wives and children, were the objects of a proscription, from which, the American consul was informed, their national flag should not be a protection, nor guard them from insult and injury.
Until the demands of the French captain should be complied with, the port of Honolulu was declared by him in a state of blockade, and no advices were allowed to be sent from it except with his knowledge.
The conduct of the foreign residents, at this juncture, was most extraordinary. ‘So far from aiding, by their advice and countenance, the government under whose protection they had been living and making fortunes, they organized a committee to look to their own safety in the threatened crisis, formed a company of minute-men, not to act against the invaders, but against the natives; and actually ap- plied to Captain Laplace for the loan of arms and ammunition, to be employed against those to whom they were in so many ways indebted. They thus took part against the native government, which they de- serted in its utmost need; and it is with regret that I am compelled to state that the Americans as a body did not form an exception, but that some of them left the native rulers to struggle as they best could with a powerful enemy.
The missionaries who were proscribed, declined to involve the king and chiefs in further difficulties by giving advice, which, coming from them, would have been obnoxious to the French commander, but silently awaited the sufferig which they seemed called upon to undergo.
The regent, Kekauluohi, and the governor, Kekuanaoa, succeeded after some negotiation in obtaining a delay of the threatened hostili- ties, until the king, who had been sent for, should arrive from Maui, or until a sufficient time should be allowed for his so doing; and Haalilio was sent on board the frigate as a hostage, for the execution of the treaty they were required to sign. The time which was thus allowed to intervene, was spent on the side of the foreigners in creating
HAWAIIAN GROUP. 17
alarm, and holding up in dismal colours the prospect of the bloodshed and rapine that were to fall on the devoted community, in case the demands of the French captain were not complied with; and on the part of the chiefs in forming an efficient police to suppress any intes- tine commotion. Their conduct ought to have put to the blush those whose property they thus prepared to guard, and I can conceive no- thing more disgraceful than the conduct of the foreigners on this occasion. Even the American consul fell in the first instance into an error, in not asserting the right of his flag to protect all Americans, and in not throwing back upon the French commander the unmanly threat he had uttered against the missionaries and their families. He, however, fully retrieved his error before the affair ended.
It would appear that the sum demanded by Captain Laplace had been made so large by the advice of the French consul, who knew that the resources of the native government would not enable them to raise it, and who hoped that, in lieu of it, any commercial arrange- ments he might choose to dictate would be granted, or that a good pretext would exist for the occupation of the island by the French, either of which might be turned to his (the consul’s) pecuniary ad- vantage. ‘The same reasons operated in a different manner upon the other foreign residents; for after their first alarm had somewhat sub- sided, they became aware of the injury to which the latter alternative would have subjected them, while from actual hostilities they would be the greatest sufferers; and thus, to the great disappointment of the French consul, they determined to lend the demanded sum to the government. ‘The king did not arrive at the specified time; but the regent and governor, being thus furnished with funds, at a high rate of interest, signed the treaty.
Although the hopes of the French consul to see the island taken possession of by his countrymen were frustrated, he took advantage of the state of affairs to secure a personal advantage to himself, by procuring a commercial treaty which should abrogate, in favour of the French, the laws against the importation of spirituous liquors. Captain Laplace lent himself to this design, and a commercial treaty was drawn up, which, under the avowed intention of protecting French commerce, provided for the free admission of brandy and wine, in which the consul had hitherto been an illicit trader. This treaty was presented to the king, who had by this time arrived, late in the afternoon, and he was required to put his signature to it by the next morning, failing which, it was intimated that hostile measures
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18 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
would be again resorted to. It is not surprising that the king, on this occasion, found himself, as he expressed it to me, completely at a loss what to do, when he found a second treaty presented to him for his signature, which broke down his laws and the municipal regulations of the island. These difficulties were enhanced by finding that he was left entirely to himself, and without the aid of any friendly advice; for no time was allowed him, even to call in the counsel of his own chiefs. The foreigners, both residents and missionaries, kept aloof from him, although now was a juncture at which the true friends of this people might have acted to advantage by stepping forward in sup- port of the laws under which they lived. They cannot be too much blamed for having suffered this flagrant outrage upon the rights of a feeble nation to be committed with their knowledge, and without strong and decided remonstrances on their part. ‘The missionaries, in parti- cular, lost a glorious opportunity. It would have shown their character in a beautiful light, if, after abstaining as they did from any act that might have increased the embarrassment of the government, when they were themselves threatened, they had come forward to oppose, by every means in their power, the overthrow of the laws enacted to check the scourge of intemperance, against which they had so long contended.
The merchants, also, had not the spirit to raise a voice in condem- nation of an act fraught with so much evil to the people from whom they were gaining their livelihood. Although all were aware of what was going forward, and some of them were appealed to, none would take the responsibility of advising the king to withhold his sig- nature from a treaty that was to degrade him in his own eyes, and which subverted the laws that had hitherto been so beneficial.
I make these comments on the conduct of the foreign residents and missionaries, because 1 am satisfied that the smallest opposition would now have checked the career of Captain Laplace; and it would have required but little argument to prove to him the selfish views of the French consul. Whatever he might have done had his first requisi- tions not been complied with, I cannot believe, that to secure a com- mercial treaty, (which does not appear to have been part of his in- structions) however advantageous, he would have ventured to com- mence hostilities, or that, if opposed on this point, he would have proceeded to trample on the rights of the monarch of a weak and unoffending nation.
It was now that Captain Laplace insisted upon the recognition, in
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the capacity of consul, of the irresponsible individual of whom we have spoken under that style, but who had not hitherto been received by the government.
The affair terminated by the landing of Captain Laplace, with two hundred of his men, fully armed and equipped for battle, for the pur- pose of celebrating mass in one of the straw-built houses of the king.
The frigate sailed the day after this ceremony; and thus, in the space of ten days, Captain Laplace had, by the terror of his cannon, forced a dreaded religion upon a reluctant people, heaped ignominy on the sovereign and chiefs, trodden down the laws, and left the islands open to the introduction of immorality and vice, besides car- rying off in his frigate the whole of the circulating medium. This was truly an heroic exploit, and one that must redound greatly to the credit of all who were concerned in it!
The immediate consequences of the treaty, were it not for their serious results, would be ludicrous. The brig Clementine, which has before been mentioned, was immediately despatched by the French consul to the coast of South America, whence she returned without delay, having on board the Bishop of Nicopolis with several priests, and a full cargo of French wines and brandy. It is needless to describe the effect which the introduction of quantities of intoxica- ting liquor produced upon the population of the islands, the inferior classes of which have still the propensity manifested by all savages for this worst product of the arts of civilized nations. The chiefs have indeed endeavoured to put some impediment in the way of the pro- gress of the scourge, by making it necessary to obtain a license for the retail of spirituous liquors.
After this account, it will be easy to understand the feelings of mortification and regret with which the king spoke of the Laplace treaty. He said, that he was not surprised that France should have sent a force to inquire whether his people had injured the natives of that country who had visited them, but he did wonder that so great a nation as France was represented to him to be, should have wished to destroy his laws, and make his people drunkards for the sake of selling a small quantity of brandy; that, were not his honour con- cerned, he would willingly sacrifice the twenty thousand dollars which Captain Laplace held as security for the faithful performance of the treaty, if by so doing he could prevent the demoralization of his people; that the commercial treaty had been forced upon him by Captain Laplace and the French consul, who threatened to renew the war and destroy Honolulu; that they refused him time to consult
20 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
with his chiefs or any other person, and insisted on receiving his signature the next morning. Having no one with whom to advise, his own impulse was to do any thing that might serve to preserve peace and prevent injury to his people and the foreigners under his protection.
He said further, that this was not the only instance in which his consent had been extorted by threats, to measures of which he dis- approved, and that there had been instances when he had been called upon to perform alleged promises which he had never given, for there were some of the foreigners who misrepresented every thing that took place in their interviews with him.
I at once pointed out a simple remedy for this, namely, that he should hereafter transact all business in writing, and have no verbal communication with people of this stamp or indeed with any one; telling him that by keeping their letters and copies of his own, he would always be in possession of evidence of what had passed. I assured him that I considered his government to have made sufficient progress towards a position among civilized nations to authorize him to require that official business should be carried on in this manner, and expressed my belief, that should he adopt this method, the “bullies” of whom he had spoken would give him no further trouble.
I now found that his principal object in requesting an interview with me was, that he might renew and amplify his treaty with the United States, for which purpose he thought it probable that I might have had instructions. When he found that this was not the case, and that I had no official communication for him, he was evidently disappointed; for he appeared most desirous to enter into a close friendship with the United States, and spoke in the highest terms of the kind manner in which he had ever been treated by our consul Mr. Brinsmade and the commanders of the United States vessels of war that had visited his islands. In conclusion, he intimated his hopes that the United States would acknowledge his people as a nation, and enter into a new treaty with him as its ruler.
All this was well and intelligently expressed by him, but the main subject of the conversation, which lasted for three hours, was his regret that he had ever permitted foreigners to interfere with his laws and municipal regulations, and had not rather allowed them to do their worst. The only justification he could offer to himself for his sub-
mission was, that by yielding he had saved much trouble and distress to others.
HAWAIIAN GROUP. 21
To return to the Laplace treaty. A commission has been sent to France with letters to its government, containing a statement of the transactions of which we have spoken, and asking that the commer- cial treaty might be annulled as injurious to the morals of his people, and the king expressed his hopes that this appeal to the magnanimity and moral sense of the French monarch would be successful.
With the Catholics, to whom this treaty has given free entrance, I had no direct intercourse. I saw however that they were zealous in their exertions to inculcate their peculiar tenets; they have already several places of worship, and were busy in erecting a large chapel of stone. All the chiefs, however, and the great body of the people, are still Protestants. The existence of two different creeds has caused some difficulties. One relating to the school system took place during the stay of our squadron; and another relative to marriages between native converts of different persuasions.
I cannot but indulge the hope, that the competition of the teachers of different creeds, if they be actuated by proper motives, will, by stimulating their efforts, tend to the improvement of education and the advancement of civilization. The Protestant missionaries have already done so much good, that it is much more a matter of wonder that there should be so many signs of piety, and so many instances of strict obedience to the moral law, than that vice and sensuality are still to be seen in existence in this community, so recently redeemed from barbarism.
Among the most obvious benefits of the missionary labours, are a code of laws and a written constitution; the last of which was pro- mulgated on the 8th October, 1840. It is, no doubt, far from being perfect, but it is as much so as circumstances would permit, and isa proof of the sincerity of the interest the king and chiefs take in the welfare of those whom they govern; for in it they have made a willing sacrifice of their power to what they deem the general benefit of the nation.
I was furnished with a copy of this constitution by Mr. Richards, and I insert it, as perhaps the best mode of contrasting the present State of the Hawaiian people with that of the inhabitants of the other Polynesian islands, and of exhibiting the advance which they have made towards complete civilization.
VOL. IV. 6
22 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
CONSTITUTION, LAWS, ETC.
DECLARATION OF RIGHTS, BOTH OF THE PEOPLE AND CHIEFS.
“God hath made of one blood all nations of men, to dwell on the earth” in unity and blessedness. God has also bestowed certain rights alike on all men, and all chiefs, and all people of all lands.
These are some of the rights which he has given alike to every man and every chief of correct deportment : life, limb, liberty, freedom from oppression, the earnings of his hands and the productions of his mind ; not, however, to those who act in violation of the laws.
God has also established governments, and rule, for the purpose of peace; but, in making laws for the nation, it is by no means proper to enact laws for the protection of the rulers only, without also pro- viding protection for their subjects; neither is it proper to enact laws to enrich the chiefs only, without regard to enriching their subjects also; and hereafter there shall, by no means, be any laws enacted which are at variance with what is above expressed, neither shall any tax be assessed, nor any service or labour required of any man, ina manner which is at all at variance with the above sentiments.
PROTECTION FOR THE PEOPLE DECLARED.
The above sentiments are hereby published for the purpose of pro- tecting alike both the people and the chiefs of all these islands, while they maintain a correct deportment; that no chief may be able to oppress any subject, but that chiefs and people may enjoy the same protection, under one and the same law.
Protection is hereby secured to the persons of all the people, together with their lands, their building-lots, and all their property, while they conform to the laws of the kingdom ; and nothing what- ever shall be taken from any individual except by express provision of the laws. Whatever chief shall act perseveringly in violation of the constitution, shall no longer remain a chief of the Hawaiian Islands, and the same shall be true of the governors, officers, and all land agents.
But if any one who is deposed should change his course and regu- late his conduct by law, it shall then be in the power of the chiefs to reinstate him in the place he occupied previous to his being deposed.
HAWAIIAN GROUP. 23
CONSTITUTION.
It is our design to regulate our kingdom according to the above principles, and thus seek the greatest prosperity both of all the chiefs and all the people of these Hawaiian Islands. But we are aware that we cannot ourselves alone accomplish such an object. God must be our aid, for it is his province alone to give perfect protection and pro- perty. Wherefore we first present our supplication to him, that he will guide us to right measures and sustain us in our work.
It is, therefore, our fixed decree :—
1. That no law shall be enacted which is at variance with the word of the Lord Jehovah, or at variance with the general spirit of his word. All laws of the island shall be in consistency with the general spirit of God’s law.
2. All men, of every religion, shall be protected in worshipping Jehovah, and serving him according to their own understanding, but no man shall ever be punished for neglect of God, unless he injures his neighbour, or bring evil on the kingdom.
3. The law shall give redress to every man who is injured by another, without a fault of his own, and shall protect all men while they conduct properly, and shall punish all men who commit crime against the kingdom or against individuals; and no unequal law shall be passed for the benefit of one to the injury of another.
4. No man shall be punished, unless his crime be first made manifest, neither shall he be punished unless he be first brought to trial in the presence of his accusers, and they have met face to face, and the trial having been conducted according to law, and the crime made manifest in their presence, then punishment may be inflicted.
5. No man or chief shall be permitted to sit as judge or act on a jury to try his particular friend or enemy, or one who is especially connected with him. Wherefore, if any man be condemned or acquitted, and it shall afterwards be made to appear that some one who tried him acted with partiality, for the purpose of favouring his friend or injuring his enemy, or for the purpose of enriching himself, then there shall be a new trial allowed before those who are impartial.
EXPOSITION OF THE PRINCIPLES ON WHICH THE PRESENT DYNASTY IS FOUNDED.
The origin of the present government and system of polity is as
QA HAWAIIAN GROUP.
follows: Kamehameha I. was the founder of the kingdom, and to him belonged all the land from one end of the islands to the other, though it was not his own private property. It belonged to the chiefs and people in common, of whom Kamehameha I. was the head, and had the management of the landed property. Wherefore, there was not formerly and is not now any person who could or can convey away the smallest portion of land without the consent of the one who had or has the direction of the kingdom.
These are the persons who have had the direction of it from that time down: Kamehameha II., Kaahumanu L., and at the present time Kamehameha III. These persons have had the direction of the king- dom down to the present time, and all documents written by them, and no others, are the documents of the kingdom.
The kingdom is permanently confirmed to Kamehameha III. and his heirs, and his heir shall be the person whom he and the chiefs shall appoint during his lifetime ; but should there be no appointment, then the decision shall rest with the chiefs and House of Represent- atives.
PREROGATIVES OF THE KING.
The prerogatives of the king are as follows. He is the sovereign of all the people and all the chiefs. The kingdom is his. He shall have the direction of the army and all the implements of war of the kingdom. He also shall have the direction of the government property, the poll-tax, the land-tax, the three days’ monthly labour ; though in conformity to the laws. He also shall retain his own private lands, and lands forfeited for the non-payment of taxes shall revert to him. He shall be the chief judge of the supreme court, and it shall be his duty to execute the laws of the land, also all decrees and treaties with other countries; all, however, in accordance with the laws.
It shall also be his prerogative to form treaties with the rulers of all other kingdoms, also to receive all ministers sent by other coun- tries, and he shall have power to confirm agreements with them.
He shall also have power to make war in time of emergency when the chiefs cannot be assembled, and he shall be the commander-in- chief. He shall also have power to transact all important business of the kingdom, which is not by law assigned to others.
HAWAIIAN GROUP. Q5
RESPECTING THE PREMIER OF THE KINGDOM.
It shall be the duty of the king to appoint some chief of rank and ability to be his particular minister, whose title shall be Premier of the Kingdom. His office and business shall be the same as that of ~‘Kaahumanu I. and Kaahumanu II. For even in the time of Kame- hameha I., life and death, condemnation and acquittal, were in the hands of Kaahumanu. When Kamehameha I. died, his will was, “The kingdom is Liho-liho’s, and Kaahumanu is his minister.”
That important feature of the government, originated by Kameha- meha I., shall be perpetuated in these Hawaiian Islands, but shall always be in subserviency to the law.
The following are the duties of the premier :
All business connected with the special interests of the kingdom, which the king wishes to transact, shall be done by the premier under the authority of the king. All documents and business of the kingdom, executed by the premier, shall be considered as executed by the king’s authority. All government property shall be reported to him (or her), and he (or she) shall make it over to the king.
The premier shall be the king’s special counsellor in the great business of the kingdom.
The king shall not act without the knowledge of the premier, nor shall the premier act without the knowledge of the king, and the veto of the king on the acts of the premier shall arrest the business. All important business of the kingdom which the king chooses to transact in person, he may do it, but not without the approbation of the premier.
GOVERNORS.
There shall be four governors over these Hawaiian Islands—one for Hawaii, one for Maui and the islands adjacent, one for Oahu, and one for Kauai and the adjacent islands. All the governors, from Hawaii to Kauai, shall be subject to the king.
The prerogatives of the governors and their duties, shall be as fol- lows. Each governor shall have the general direction of the several tax-gatherers of his island, and shall support them in the execution of all their orders which he considers to have been properly given, but shall pursue a course according to law, and not according to his own private views. He also shall preside over all the judges of his island,
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26 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
and shall see their sentences executed as above. He shall also appoint the judges and give them their certificates of office.
All the governors, from Hawaii to Kauai, shall be subject not only to the king but also to the premier.
The governor shall be superior over his particular island or islands. He shall have charge of the munitions of war, under the direction of the king however, and the premier. He shall have charge of the forts, the soldiery, the arms, and all the implements of war. He shall receive the government dues, and shall deliver over the same to the premier. All important decisions rest with him in times of emergency, unless the king or premier be present. He shall have charge of all the king’s business on the island, the taxation, new improvements to be extended, and plans for the increase of wealth; and all officers shall be subject to him. He shall also have power to decide all questions, and transact all island business which is not by law assigned to others.
When either of the governors shall decease, then all the chiefs shall assemble at such place as the king shall appoint, and shall nominate a successor of the deceased governor ; and whosoever they shall nomi- nate and be approved by the king, he shall be the new governor.
RESPECTING THE SUBORDINATE CHIEFS.
At the present period, these are the persons who shall sit in the government councils: Kamehameha III., Kekauluohi, Hoapiliwahine, Kuakini, Kekauonohi, Kahekili, Paki, Konai, Koahokalola, Leleio- hoku, Kekuanaoa, Kealiiahonui, Kanaina, Keoni li, Keoni Ana, and Haalilio. Should any person be received into the council, it shall be made known by law. These persons shall have part in the councils of the kingdom. No law of the nation shall be passed without their assent. ‘They shall act in the following manner: they shall assemble annually, for the purpose of seeking the welfare of the nation, and establishing the laws of the kingdom. Their meetings shall com- mence in April, at such day and place as the king shall appoint.
It shall be proper for the king to consult with the above persons respecting all the great concerns of the kingdom, in order to promote unanimity and secure the greatest good. They shall moreover trans- act such other business as the king shall commit to them.
They shall still retain their own appropriate lands, whether dis- tricts or plantations, in whatever divisions they may be, and they may
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conduct the business on said lands at their discretion, but not at vari- ance with the laws of the kingdom.
RESPECTING THE REPRESENTATIVE BODY.
There shall be annually chosen certain persons to sit in council with the chiefs and establish laws for the nation. They shall be chosen by the people, according to their wish, from Hawai, Maui, Oahu, and Kauai. The law shall decide the form of choosing them, and also the number to be chosen. ‘This representative body shall have a voice in the business of the kingdom. No law shall be passed without the approbation of a majority of them.
RESPECTING THE MEETINGS OF THE LEGISLATIVE BODY.
There shall be an annual meeting as stated above; but if the chiefs think it desirable to meet again, they may do it at their discretion. When they assemble, the nobles shall meet by themselves, and the representative body by themselves, though at such times as they shall think it necessary to consult together, they may unite at their discre- tion.
The form of doing business shall be as follows: the nobles shall appoint a secretary for themselves, who at the meetings shall record all decisions made by them; and that book of records shall be pre- served, in order that no decrees affecting the interests of the kingdom shall be lost.
The same shall be done by the representative body. They too shall choose a secretary for themselves; and when they meet for the purpose of seeking the interests of the kingdom, and shall come to a decision on any point, then that decision shall be recorded in a book, and the book shall be preserved, in order that nothing valuable, affect- ing the interests of the kingdom, shall be lost; and there shall be no new law made without the approbation of a majority of the chiefs, aud also a majority of the representative body.
When any act has been agreed upon by them, it shall then be pre- sented to the king, and if he approve and sign his name, and also the premier, then it shall become a law of the kingdom; and that law
shall not be repealed until it is done by the voice of those who esta- blished it.
98 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
RESPECTING THE TAX OFFICERS.
The king and premier shall appoint tax officers, and give them their certificates of office. There shall be district tax officers for each of the islands, at the discretion of the king and premier.
When a tax officer has received his certificate of appointment, he shall not be dismissed from office without first having a formal trial, and having been convicted of fault, at which time he shall be dis- missed. ‘Though if the law should prescribe a given number of years as the term of office, it may be done.
The following are the established duties of the tax officers. They shall assess the taxes, and give notice of the amount to all the people, that they may understand in suitable time. The tax officers shall make the assessments in subserviency to the orders of the governors, and in accordance with the requirements of the law. And when the taxes are to be gathered, they shall gather them, and deliver the property to the governor, and the governor shall pay it over to the premier, and the premier shall deliver it to the king.
The tax officers shall also have charge of the public labour done for the king, though if they see proper to commit it to the land agents, itis well; but the tax officers being above the land agents, shall be accountable for the work. ‘They shall also have charge of all new business which the king shall wish to extend through the kingdom. In all business, however, they shall be subject to the governor.
The tax officers shall be the judges in all cases arising under the tax law. Im all cases where land agents or landlords are charged with oppressing the lower classes, and also in all cases of difficulty between land agents and tenants, the tax officers shall be the judges, and also all cases arising under the tax law enacted on the 7th of June, 1839.
They shall, moreover, perform their duties in the following manner. Hach tax officer shall be confined in his authority to his own appropriate district. If a difficulty arises between a land agent and his tenant, the tax officer shall try the case, and if the tenant be found guilty, then the tax officer, in connexion with the land agent, shall execute the law upon him. But if the tax officer judge the land agent to be in fault, then he shall notify all the tax officers of his particular island, and if they are agreed, they shall pass sentence on him, and the governor shall execute it. But in all trials, if any
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individual take exception to the decision of the tax officer, he may appeal to the governor, who shall have the power to try the case again, and if exceptions are taken to the decision of the governor, on information given to the supreme judges, there shall be a new and final trial before them.
OF THE JUDGES.
Each of the governors shall, at his discretion, appoint judges for his particular island, two or more, as he shall think expedient, and shall give them certificates of office. After having received their certificates, they shall not be turned out except by impeachment, though it shall be proper at any time for the law to limit the term of office.
They shall act in the following manner. They shall give notice beforehand of the days on which courts are to be held. When the time specified arrives, they shall be the judges in cases arising under the laws, excepting those which regard taxation, or difficulties between land agents, or landlords and their tenants. They shall be sustained by the governor, whose duty it shall be to execute the law according to their decisions. But if exceptions are taken to their judgment, whosoever takes them, may appeal to the supreme judges.
OF THE SUPREME JUDGES.
The representative body shall appoint four persons whose duty it shall be to aid the king and premier, and six persons shall constitute the supreme court of the kingdom.
Their business shall be to settle all cases of difficulty which are left unsettled by the tax officers and common judges. They shall give a new trial according to the conditions of the law. They shall give previous notice of the time for holding courts, in order that those who are in difficulty may appeal. The decision of these shall be final. There shall be no further trial afterwards. Life, death, confinement, fine, and freedom from it, are all in their hands, and their decisions are final.
OF CHANGES IN THIS CONSTITUTION.
This constitution shall not be considered as finally established
VOL. IV. 8
30 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
until the people have generally heard it, and have appointed persons according to the provisions herein made, and they have given their assent; then this constitution shall be considered as permanently established.
But hereafter, if it should be thought desirable to change it, notice shall be previously given, that all the people may understand the nature of the proposed change, and at the succeeding meeting of the chiefs and the representative body, if they shall agree as to the addition proposed, or as to the alteration, then they may make it.
The above constitution has been agreed to by the chiefs, and we have hereunto subscribed our names, this eighth day of October, in the year of our Lord eighteen hundred and forty, at Honolulu, Oahu.
(Signed) KamenaMena III. KEKAULUOHI.
The code of laws is now administered with firmness and a promp- titude that gives them great effect, and of this we had an instance while we remained at Honolulu.
A night or two after our arrival, I was awakened by one of the most startling and mournful sounds I ever heard, which lasted all night, and disturbed the whole town of Honolulu. It brought back to my mind the idea that I was still among savages, which the im- pressions I had received within the last few days had in a measure dissipated. This sound proved to be the wailing over Kamakinki, the wife of a chief of high rank. Strong suspicions being enter- tained of her havimg been poisoned by drinking ava, which her husband, Kamanawa, had prepared for her, he was apprehended, together with an accomplice, whose name was Sono. ‘Three days after their arrest, they were put under trial before Kekuanaoa, the governor, as presiding judge, and a jury of twelve Hawaiians. On being brought to the stand they were examined against themselves, and confessed on interrogation ; for the Hawaiian law permits this, and such confessions are esteemed as good testimony. They were found guilty by the jury, and Sono confessed on the trial that he had committed one other murder.
The facts in relation to the murder of the chief’s wife were as follows.
The husband and wife had been for some time separated, because the chief wished to marry another woman, for whom he had formed a strong attachment. Having already one wife, this was
HAWAIIAN GROUP. SL
forbidden by the law, and he in consequence determined to rid him- self of her. For this purpose he applied to Sono, who was said to be well acquainted with poisons. He found Sono in the same position as himself, and they both agreed to destroy their wives. Accordingly, a seeming reconciliation was brought about, and they met at the house of a son-in-law of Kamakinki to celebrate it by drinking ava. Two bowls of the liquor were prepared, the one unadulterated, the other mixed with poison composed of Tephrosia piscatoria, Daphne indica, and the leaves of a common gourd (Lagenaria). From the first of these the company drank, but when Kamakinki called for her share, which was handed to her by Kamanawa her husband, she, after taking a few mouthfuls, complained of its bitterness. On asking if the other cups had tasted so, and being answered in the negative, she at once accused her husband of having poisoned her.
The proof would have been ample without the confession of the euilty parties, for a post-mortem examination had taken place, which proved conclusively that the death had been the result of poison. The parties, however, both made a full and corresponding confession. It was stated by Kamanawa, the husband, that Sono, on receiving his application, at once said that he had a drug that would destroy life. On his expressing some doubts, Sono told him that he had already proved it in three cases. When Kamanawa drugged the ava, he had doubts whether it would prove effective, but was glad to find it So.
The prisoners were allowed counsel, and the whole proceedings were conducted in a becoming manner. ‘The charge of the judge to the jury was clear and forcible. The king and several high chiefs were present, and as Kamanawa was a great favourite of the king, it was supposed by many that a pardon would be extended to him, this being the first case in which the sentence of the law had been passed on one of so high a rank. But there was no pardon; and the criminals were hung on the 20th of October, on the walls of the fort, the king having gone some days previously to Lahaina. The con- course of people at the execution was very large, and the prisoners were attended by the missionaries. ‘There was none of that eager curiosity, rushing, and crowding, that is to be observed at home-on an occasion of the kind, and no noise or confusion. All present were decently dressed and well behaved, but they did not seem impressed with the solemnity of the scene. It was estimated that ten thousand
32 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
persons, from all parts of the island, were present. I was in hopes that the law would have been put into execution within the fort, and not on the walls, thus making it a private instead of a public execu- tion. I had much conversation relative to this subject with the authorities, but I thought the disposition was to make it a matter of parade rather than otherwise. ‘The criminals showed no manner of contrition for their foul crimes, but evinced a hardihood in unison with the deed for which they suffered the penalty of the law.
There are no persons to whom the old adage of “murder will out” will more justly apply, than to these natives; they cannot keep a secret, and when once a crime is perpetrated, it is not long before it becomes known to the public ; they will even tell against themselves, however certain the punishment may be. In this respect, nearly all the Polynesian nations are alike. It was perhaps not to be expected that much feeling should be shown on an occasion of the kind among a half-civilized nation, who had formerly been in the habit of seeing death frequently administered by the hands of the assassin, acting by the order of the chiefs; yet I was not prepared to see so quiet and indifferent a demeanour. The son of Kamanawa, who is an extremely fat youth, and one of the best swimmers and divers in the port, spoke of the execution of his father without any apparent feeling.
The immense advance which has been made by the Hawaiians in civilization, will be best appreciated by the contrast which the fore- going constitution exhibits to the ancient usages and mode of govern- ment of this group. As, however, many points in the early history of these islands have been fully illustrated by other writers, I shall content myself with a general view of such facts as may serve for the basis of a comparison between the past and present condition of the Hawaiians, and between their usages and customs and those of the other groups of Polynesia. On these points I have endeavoured to obtain the most correct information, and have been fortunate in re- ceiving it from the highest and most authentic sources.
In former times there were no fixed laws of succession to the throne, and the practice in relation to it varied. It was, however, the general usage that the crown should descend, on the death of a sovereign, to one of his children, sons being preferred to daughters, and the rank of the mother being taken into consideration, as well as priority of birth. Thus Kamehameha I. had children by several wives, but his eldest son, as well as a daughter, were superseded by the children of
HAWAIIAN GROUP. 33
another wife of more elevated birth. Even if a sovereign had sons by females of low origin, a daughter might succeed, if her mother were of very elevated rank.
A case of this sort had occurred two generations prior to the disco- very of the island, when the throne was held by Queen Keokeolaui, who had several half-brothers, but they were of lower rank on the mother’s side. There have been only two instances of the accession of females to the supreme power, Keokeolaui, and Laca, of still oreater antiquity.
Exceptions sometimes were made to the regular descent, by the conceded right of the sovereign to name his successor; and, in conse- quence, it has sometimes been willed to a younger instead of the elder son, of the same mother, and sometimes to a member of another family. Where special reasons existed for such a course, it was generally con- curred in by the chiefs. But these rules were often set aside, and personal valour decided the point. Kamehameha I. was an instance of this kind.
A chief of inferior rank stood little chance of attaining the royal dignity, however highly he might be endowed; but even the lawful heir, if a weak and pusillanimous man, was sure to be supplanted by a chief better qualified. Thus, in consequence of their being many different aspirants for the high office, the death of a king was always the signal for a civil war.
During the life of a king he generally signified his wish in relation to the descent of the crown, and often a council of chiefs was called upon the subject. If they all concurred, it put a stop to any diffi- culties, and the party nominated succeeded to the kingdom without disturbance.
If the king married a low woman, the right of her children to the crown was always disputed. Hence it was considered of great im- portance that the wife of the king should be of as high blood, if not higher, than any other female in the nation. For this reason, if there were several women of the same rank, the king felt it important to secure them all as his wives, in order that there might be no com- petition, on the ground of rank, for the kingdom after his death. On this account Kamehameha had five wives at the same time. In order to prevent the existence of competitors, it was often thought expedient for the kings to marry their own sisters, although this incestuous intercourse is, In other cases, contrary to the customs,
VOL. Iv. 9
34 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
habits, and feelings of the people. ‘The offspring of such a union was deemed of the highest possible rank.
It is said the present king was desirous of marrying his own sister, Nahienaena, but that this was prevented by the missionaries.
The public feeling was so strong against the king’s having heirs by a woman of inferior rank, that it often caused the children to be put to death in infancy by the high chiefs, in order to avoid any of them laying claim to the throne, or to a higher rank than they were willing to allow them.
Illegitimate children of the king were almost sure to be put to death in infancy, and sometimes by order of the father.
The rank of a woman was not materially altered by her marriage to the king. She acquired no authority in the government, and no special rights or privileges, but usually received a present of lands from the king, to be held during his lifetime. On his death, her right to them ceased, although they might, through courtesy, be left in her possession. It will easily be understood, that when a chief has a wife of the highest rank and purest blood, he is naturally an object of jealousy and distrust to the reigning house.
Under the new constitution the descent is regulated, as has been seen, but great latitude of choice is allowed. ‘The king’s heir shall be the person whom the king and chiefs may appoint during his life- time. If there should be no appointment, then the chiefs and House of Representatives shall exercise it; and I found it the prevailing opinion that their former customs would have much weight in their decision.
The next heir to the throne has already been chosen, in the person of Prince Alexander, the third son of Kinau, and grandson to Kame- hameha I. In this choice his two elder brothers, who are quite as intelligent, have been passed over. The king is married to the daughter of a petty chief. It was a match of affection, and they have no children; but should he have an heir, it is thought that, not- withstanding their former customs, the low rank of his wife, and the choice already made, her child would inherit.
The government, so far as one was established in past times, was mainly of a feudal character, and vested in the various ranks of land- lords, the king being considered as the head. The power of each particular chief was, in most cases, supreme over his own immediate vassals or tenants, and this power was not entirely confined to his own
HAWAIIAN GROUP. 35
dependants. ‘The chiefs having a common interest in preserving their power, showed great politeness and respect towards each other, so much so that they felt themselves at liberty to call upon the depend- ants of another without the fear of giving offence: this operated to the disadvantage of the people, for instead of serving but one master they were subject to several.
As a general rule, however, the authority descended in the scale of rank, rising from the lowest class of servants to tenants, agents, land- holders, land-owners, petty chiefs, high chiefs, and the king, each one ruling according to his own understanding, or that of his superiors. Of course, civil rights could not be expected under such a state of things, nor were any acknowledged to exist. Some general rules seem to have had place, and when they were infringed the offender was punished, particularly if the crime was of an aggravated nature.
Murder was punished by death ; and in the time of Kamehameha I. repeated instances of this crime and its punishment occurred.
Grand larceny was also a capital offence, provided the injured person had power to execute the law ; the king and chiefs not unfre- quently espoused the cause of the injured party, and inflicted the punishment.
Adultery was likewise often punished by death, and, in a cele- brated case, Kamehameha called upon his highest chiefs to act as executioners.
The taboo, or sacred law, restrained and regulated, in a considerable degree, the will of those in authority, although it was in other respects very oppressive to the people. A chief, who was a notorious violator of taboo, soon became unpopular, and was eventually supplanted by some other who stood in higher estimation.
As far as there was any system in their government, it was deeply interwoven with their religious taboos, and partook of law, custom, and will. The taboos that were fixed may be considered as embraced in the first; the second was founded on their superstitions; and the last on the power the chiefs had to enforce them. Thus, no kings have been thought to have governed exclusively by will and taboos ; custom and the fear of other chiefs had placed many restraints on them. Among these was the influence of a certain class of men whose business it was to give instruction, and rehearse the proverbs handed down from their ancestors. ‘These men often prophesied that judgment would follow if these were neglected ; but, notwithstanding, as may readily be supposed, bad rulers contrived to evade the taboos
36 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
and rules, and the people had no means of redressing their grievances but by rebellion, and placing other chiefs in their stead.
There were means used to publish the laws. Kamehameha was very particular in this respect; and there appears to have been no complaint that he had ever violated them himself.
From the earliest periods of Hawaiian history, the tenure of lands has been, in most respects, feudal. The origin of the fiefs was the same as in the northern nations of Europe. Any chieftain who could collect a sufficient number of followers to conquer a district, or an island, and had succeeded in his object, proceeded to divide the spoils, or “cut up the land,” as the natives termed it.
The king, or principal chief, made his choice from the best of the lands. Afterwards the remaining part of the conquered territory was distributed among the leaders, and these again subdivided their shares to others, who became vassals, owing fealty to the sovereigns of the fee.
The king placed some of his own particular servants on his portion as his agents, to superintend the cultivation. ‘The original occupants who were on the land, usually remained under their new conqueror, and by them the lands were cultivated, and rent or taxes paid.
This division was often a work of great difficulty. In spite of any wisdom and skill that could be exercised, it was no easy matter to satisfy every one that the division had been fairly and equally made, and before the business was finished, difficulties often arose, which ended in some cases in rebellion, and in others in open war. When every thing could be settled amicably, the whole body of retainers became bound up with the interest of the king, having every induce- ment to support him, for their property became safe or uncertain in proportion as his authority was upheld. ‘These landholders were the persons on whom the king could call and rely on to support him in his difficulties, aid him in his plans, or fight his battles.
The manner in which these divisions took place, shows more system than appears to have been practised in any other group in Polynesia.
An Island was divided ; ‘ into Mokus. Mokus : : . : «¢ Thalanas, or counties. Thalanas . 5 : : «< Ahupnaas, or townships. Ahupnaas . : c : «“ Tlis, or plantations. Ilis . 3 ; 6 A ‘¢ Moos, or small farms.
One of the latter divisions was frequently the property of a single
HAWAIIAN GROUP. 37
person, and instances occurred where all the moos which composed an ili, were possessed by one individual.
Every feudatory was bound to his particular land-owner, after the same manner as the chief or land-owner was bound to the king; and thus a feudal connexion was established between the king and his lowest subject, by which tie the society or clan was held together.
The king and chiefs having power even to depriving a chief not only of his rank, but also of his possessions, had complete control over the whole, and had them firmly bound to their purposes.
This was the only system of government known to the Hawaiians, and even the older chiefs cannot be persuaded that authority or go- vernment can be successfully maintained by any other means. Their argument is, “If they cannot take the people’s lands away from them, what will they care for their authority ?” |
But, what appears extraordinary, this bond was more often severed by the superiors than by their vassals, notwithstanding the landlord had not only a right to require military service, to tax his particular tenants at pleasure, and demand other things, among which might be daily labour in any or every kind of employment, so that a labourer seldom received on an average more than one-third of the value of his work, while the different chiefs pocketed the rest. But this was not all; even this portion of one-third was not secure, for they had no line of demarcation by which the tenant could separate the profits of his labour from the property of his chief; and if he by any chance was industrious, and brought his farm into a good state of cultivation, he was at once marked out as a subject for taxation. No tenant, in short, could call any thing he had his own. Favouritism, jealousy, and fickleness of character were so general, that no landholder could con- sider himself sure of the fruits of his own exertions, and therefore would make no improvements, and even ridiculed the idea of attempt- ing them.
These exactions came so heavily at times from particular chiefs, that the landholders found it necessary, in order to avoid starvation, to hold lands at the same time under different chiefs, so that their chance might be greater of retaining a portion, and that the neces- sities of one of them could not entirely sweep away the whole.
All that restrained a chief in demanding taxes or from dispossessing his tenants was a certain sense of propriety, which forbade the ejection of the actual cultivator of the land, notwithstanding the changes which might take place above him, so that those possessing the moos
VOL. IV. 10
38 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
were seldom disturbed. Self-interest must have pointed out this course to the chiefs, and it not only prevented distress throughout the different islands, but mitigated the evils of the frequent changes that were occurring from one cause or another. The dispossessing a tenant of his lands, also took away nearly all the personal property which might have been acquired from the lands, either directly or indirectly.
The greatest confusion and changes took place at the deaths of the chiefs or landholders, the right of the fief descending to heirs, who, as a matter of course, had followers of their own, and almost invariably dispossessed the old agents and put their own favourites in their places.
On the death of a king, these changes of course affected the whole kingdom; and on the demise of a chief, whatever territory had been subject to his sway. Under the present government the feudal tenure still exists, but it is greatly modified.
The new laws define the rights of the different classes, and prescribe the rules by which each class shall be governed.
Officers are also appointed to see that the regulations are observed, and to assess damages according to law when the rights of one class are invaded by those of another.
No tax can be now laid, neither can any property be seized, not even by the king, except by express provision of the law, and no landlord dispossesses his tenants of their fief. The right of tenure is declared perpetual, except being subject to forfeiture for non-payment of rent. The right to fix the amount of rent is regulated by law, and the people have a voice in the legislature, so that no new tax can be laid without the assent of their representatives.
These are great modifications, which one would suppose must have been found immediately effective; but the evils intended to be remedied are but partially removed, owing to the fact that the officers who are employed are ignorant, and fear to thwart the interests of the chiefs and others. These evils, as the natives improve and become more familiar with their laws and rights, must entirely vanish. Even if the abuses should continue, they can be of no great extent; for the number of the superior lords of the soil is reduced to two, of whom one is the king.
The taxation under the old kings was sufficiently regular; it was annually assessed by the king’s agents appointed for that purpose, and fluctuated but little. It did not extend below the ilis or plantations, which were taxed as follows:
HAWAIIAN GROUP. 39
One hog, “ec dog, “ fish-net, “ fishing-line, “cluster of feathers.
Twenty tapas, a part square, and a part long and narrow: the square tapas were those used for their sleeping and screens, the long and narrow ones for female dresses.
The size of the hog, dog, &c., varied according to the size of the ili. The taxes were paid into the hands of the immediate superior, and so on until they reached the king, before whom they were exhibited in a large heap. In this mode of transmission, oppor- tunities for holding back a large amount were afforded.
Besides this tax for the maintenance of the king, there were customs and rules which made it necessary to make presents to the king, especially when he was travelling, at which times himself and retinue were to be supported by presents from the people. This might be considered a forced tax, for, if sufficient supplies were not furnished, the inhabitants suffered every kind of extortion from the king’s attendants; and one may have some idea of the extent of these requisitions, when informed that the king’s party sometimes consisted of upwards of a thousand persons. Another direct tax was imposed on the work of the people, the king having a right to call out all classes of the community to perform any kind of labour he might desire ; nor was there any limit as to the amount of time, or any rules for fixing it.
The manner in which the notice of a call for labour was made, was for the king to give his orders to a chief of rank, who issued his direc- tions to other chiefs, and so on until it reached the lowest tenant. If the work was of any magnitude, such as building temples, or labour in honour of the dead, then the king issued his order to all the chiefs of rank, and it thence extended to the people. In such cases the highest persons in the nation, both male and female, were to be seen carrying stones on their shoulders, and engaged in other kinds of labour.
After they had intercourse with foreigners, the mode of taxation became changed, and its amount was somewhat increased.
In the case of furnishing sandalwood, the burden became at last quite irksome and severe. It is calculated that the traffic in this article lasted about thirty years, and yielded in that time upwards of one million of dollars. It is considered fortunate that the supply has
A() HAWAIIAN GROUP.
become exhausted, as the collection of this wood was the most onerous of all the ways in which the chiefs exacted taxes from the people. The trade in sandalwood was likewise carried on in shares, and there- fore that gathered by taxation was but a moiety of that which has been derived from these islands.
There was yet another mode of taxation practised until a year or two before our visit. This was by a duty on so much of the produce of the islands as was carried to market. At Honolulu this amounted to one-half, but at other places less frequented it was not as heavy. Besides this, a tax was levied on trades, such as the house-builders, &c., and even on those who washed clothes.
The tax on land was sometimes collected in money, the poll-tax always. One year the government received twenty-five thousand dollars; but I understood that usually it was about half that sum. These were government taxes; but the chiefs regulated their posses- sions in the same manner, and so it continued throughout down to the petty chiefs. It is not probable that any one could evade the host of tax-gatherers; indeed, no valuable article could be held by the lower classes; for if not directly falling under some of the heads of taxation, a mode would be devised by some one of their superiors to enable him to take it, or persuasion was resorted to, until it was given up to satisfy the demands.
From this, it naturally resulted, that none of the lower orders, even if they were able, would live in a large house, cook a large hog, fish with a large net, or wear a dress of good cloth.
The lower order of chiefs, not unfrequently, made use of the king’s name to obtain the articles they wanted. This was done by spread- ing a report that the king was about to visit a place, which at once put the whole community in a stir to build houses for him; hogs and all articles necessary for his entertainment would be collected, and they even went so far at times as to cook some of the provisions. The king not arriving, the head men, of course, appropriated the houses, provisions, &c., enjoying themselves quite in royal style.
Thanks to the enlightening influence of the missionaries, this whole system of taxation has gone into disuse, and the right to tax the people is confined to the government, in which the people them- selves have a voice. ‘The only tax that is left to chiefs and landlords is one of labour; this is now limited to three days in a month, and the tenants may commute it for four dollars and a half a year.
In the laying of the taxes, it has been thought advisable to have
HAWAIIAN GROUP. Al
them all estimated in money, although they are paid in a variety of ways. ‘They are assessed on the polls and on lands. 'The manner of the assessment varies. In the first year it was made heavier on the polls than on the lands. The poll-tax must be paid in money ; and if not paid at the time, it must be paid in double the amount of produce. This will show the dependence they place on the facility of gaining returns. ‘The land-tax may be paid in produce at market prices.
Most of the land-tax is now paid in hogs, which it is found can be turned to very little advantage, as there is not much demand for them. The rate of the poll-tax, from year to year, according to their present laws, is—
For able-bodied Men, 5 4 : . 75 cents. Women, . 0 , 9 A ‘ 37 Boyssee ¢ 0 : : . SIC Gils, : A : 5 F ; @))
The land-tax is assessed, as formerly, on each ili. The amount varies from two and a half to ten dollars. The size of an ili may be understood by its being capable of supporting about thirty people.
The present rate of taxation of every kind is believed to amount, on a fair estimate, according to the government, to about eleven dollars and fifty cents on a family, consisting of two adults and two children ; of this amount it is supposed that nine dollars is paid in labour, one in produce, and one dollar and fifty cents in money.
The real revenue of the government falls far short of this, not amounting to more than fifty thousand dollars annually, when, according to the above data, it ought to be more than three hundred thousand dollars.
Thus there appears to be a defect in the system, which is well known to the king and chiefs. Mr. Richards believes that it is owing to the want of a circulating medium, and the receiving those kinds of articles that are not available in the market for cash. The fifty thousand dollars goes to the petty chiefs and to the payment of rents, &c., leaving only about fourteen thousand dollars as the actual income of His Majesty Kamehameha III.
There are many persons who are excused from paying taxes. Thus, all fathers who have three children whom they support, are freed from the labour-tax.
VOL. Iv. 11
42 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
If a man has four children, he is then freed from labour-taxes both to the king and his landlord.
If he has five, he is freed from the poll-tax.
If six, he is freed from all taxation whatever.
All old persons, and all who are sickly and feeble, all teachers of schools and pupils in schools where the higher branches are taught, are exempt from taxation, unless the pupils are landholders, when they pay the land-tax.
The statistics of crime which they have are of no value, for they have kept no regular record. I understood that some of the chiefs had kept records of the sentences that had been passed; but they were so vague, so isolated, and so defective, as to be unworthy of confidence.
All high crimes have usually been punished with death. ‘This was, however, previous to 1824. The executions were more lke assassinations than judicial punishments. Formerly among a chief’s retinue were executioners, called ili-muku, to whom the business of punishing capitally was committed. ‘These persons became well known to the people, and as no trials or any senteuces were pro- mulgated, even to see these men abroad created general consterna- tion, as the people knew not where the blow was to fall, and all those who were conscious of having committed any offence against the king considered themselves in great peril. ‘The victims were usually attacked in the night, without giving them any warning, with clubs and stones. Such was the fear entertained of the king’s authority, that even if the executioners were discovered, the nearest friends did not dare to give warning, or assist 1n resisting them.
Those who had violated the religious taboos were seized, either secretly or openly, by the officers of the priests, and carried to the temple, where they were stoned, strangled, or beaten to death with clubs, and then laid on the altar to putrefy. These constituted the great majority of executions in former times; some, indeed, were by order of the chiefs, and in conformity to their rules of avenging pri- vate wrongs.
A high chief, Kanihouni, was sentenced by Kamehameha to be put to death. As he was possessed of great power and influence, many precautions were taken to quell any rebellion that might arise from the attempt. He was executed in the following manner. The king caused a number of soldiers to be armed, who were concealed in a
HAWAIIAN GROUP. 43
neighbouring house ; he then sent a silver coin to Pitt (Kalanimoku), who, having heard of the crime committed by Kanihouni, imme- diately understood the secret signal. He at once repaired to the king’s house, where he received his orders, and several of the high chiefs were also ordered to aid him in the execution.
Kamehameha I. was greatly importuned to grant a pardon to Kanihouni, for all the higher chiefs were his relations; but he was inexorable, and finally threatened them, if his orders were not carried into effect, he would cause some of them to be substituted instead of the criminal.
The chiefs, finding that entreaty was in vain, went openly to the house of Kanihouni, and put him to death in a very unusual manner. A rope being put around his neck, and the ends of it being passed through the opposite sides of the house, they took hold of them and strangled him.
After the introduction of edged tools, and especially axes, beheading secretly in the night became a common form of execution. The last instance of this occurred in 1822.
The king sent an il-muku in the night, who found the criminal fast asleep, his wife by his side ; and it is said that the ili-muku gently pulled the woman’s head on one side, and with a broadaxe instantly severed the head of the husband from his body.
In 1824, an officer at Hawaii was guilty of high treason in at- tempting to give up the fort (in which he was serving) to the rebels. By the order of Kalanimoku, he was taken on board a vessel, under pretence of being sent to Oahu; during the passage, at night, he was taken on deck, stabbed, and thrown overboard. ‘This is said to have been the last punishment in the form of assassination. Since then, capital offences have been regularly tried by jury, and executions have been by hanging, of which the first instance was in 1826.
The whole number of executions for murder since 1826, have been as follows:
On Kauai . 3 Oahu . ai Maui . 2 Hawaii 1
In all 5 s : 5 13
Besides another murder on Hawaii, in which the culprit committed
44 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
suicide; thus averaging one a year in the whole group, besides two cases of manslaughter.
The mythology of the Hawaiians is extensive and complicated; but their gods are fast being forgotten, and few are willing to spend much time in attending to them. Little information on this subject is to be derived from any one with whom I had an opportunity of conversing. What is known is contained in published accounts.
Traditions were extremely numerous, and many have been already published in the Hawaiian Spectator.
The Hawaiians appear to have but little knowledge of astronomy. Hoapili, who died a short time before our arrival, was accounted one of their most skilful astrologers. They had some knowledge of the planets, with five of which they were acquainted, viz.: Mercury (Kawela), Venus (Naholoholo), Jupiter (Hoomanalonala), Mars (Holo- kolapinaau), Saturn (Mukula). ‘There was a class of persons whose employment was to watch the motions of the stars, and who from prac- tice became tolerably accurate observers of many celestial phenomena. They were in the habit of telling the hour of the night quite as cor- rectly as they did the hour of the day by the sun. This remark applies more particularly to the fishermen and those who were em- ployed during the night.
It was by the particular position of the planets (or “ wandering stars’) in relation to certain fixed ones, that their soothsayers grounded their predictions of the fate of battles, and the success of all enter- prises.
The contiguity of the planets to certain fixed stars and constella- tions, some of which had names, foretold the speedy death of some chief. The goddess of volcanoes (Pele) was supposed to hold inter- course with the travelling stars, and from their movements hers were oftentimes predicted.
The motions of the stars in the vicinity of the north pole attracted much of their attention, and was often a subject of discussion among their astrologers. These they designated as the regular travelling stars, the planets were the wandering ones.
Of the true motions, they had no knowledge whatever. ‘Their best chronologists measured time by means both of the moon and fixed stars. The year was divided into twelve months, and each month into thirty days. They had a distinct name for each of the days of the month. The following is a copy of the Hawaiian calendar.
HAWAIIAN GROUP. 45
MONTHS. Ikuwa : : : : : 0 : January. Waileku 5 : . : 5 : . February. Makalii 3 : 3 ; ‘ : 5 March. Kaelo < ‘i : o : : April. Kaulua 3 c 3 : c : . May. Nana : 5 ; : 5 S 3 June. Welo : : : : 5 : . July. Thiki i 3 5 i 5 5 . August. Kaaona : 0 c . : c : September. Kinaiaelele . a : ‘ : 3 : October. Hilinehu 3 : : 5 : F November. Helenama . 5 : : ’ , December.
DAYS. 1. Hilo, day of new moon. 16. Mahealaui. 2. Hoaka. 17. Kulu. 3. Kukahi. 18. Laaukukahi. 4. Kulua. 19. Laaukulua. 5. Kukolu, 20. Laaupau. 6. Kupau. 21. Olekukahi. 7. Olekukahi. 22. Olekulua. 8. Olekulua. 23. Olepau. 9. Olekukolu. 24, Kaloakukahi. 10. Olepau. 25. Kaloakulua. 11. Huna. 26. Kaloapau. 12, Mohalu. 27. Kaue, 13. Hua. 28. Lono. 14, Akua. 29. Mauli. 15. Hoku. 30. Muku.
The names of the months were not the same at all the islands, but those of the days were.
On the island of Hawaii, to each month was assigned a particular business, as follows :
1. Naua,
2. Welo, Months for war.
3. Tkikiki,
4, Kaona, taboo the opelu.
5. Hinaiaeleele, catch the opelu.
6. Hilinehu .
7, Hie Taxing months.
8. Ikuwa, prayers, games, and dissipations, 9. Wailehu, annual feast, and pay taxes.
VOL. IV. 12
46 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
10. Makalii, idols carried around the island ; demanding taxes. 11. Kaelo (January), offerings for the dead; catch boneta. 12. Kaulau, fishing boneta.
Farming was carried on at all seasons of the year.
It is not a little singular that two islands so closely in the vicinity of each other as Hawaii and Maui, both speaking the same language, should have had their monthly calendar varying nearly two months.
With regard to the days, they commenced numbering them on the first day the new moon is seen in the west.
This made it necessary for them to correct their reckoning every two or three months, and reduce their year to twelve lunations in- stead of three hundred and sixty-five days. The difference between the sidereal and lunar year, they are said to have discovered, and to have corrected their reckoning by the stars, for which reason in prac- tice their years varied, some containing twelve and others thirteen lunations.
They likewise applied corrections to their months, giving them twenty-nine and thirty days. Although this caused many breaks in their system, yet their chronologists could always tell the name of the day and month on which any great event had occurred ; and it is easy to reduce their time to ours, except when the change of the moon takes place about the middle of our calendar months, when there is a hability to a mistake of a whole month. Another error is apt to occur in the uncertainty of the day when the moon is discovered in the west. It may readily be conceived that their own method did not tend to much accuracy, as they had to rely entirely upon their memories.
Eclipses were thought to be an attack on the sun and moon, by the gods, and presaged a war or some other disaster.*
They thought that much of their success depended on working in unison with the heavenly bodies; yet, as I before said, they had not the slightest notion of the most simple astronomical calculation.
The first little book published that contained some of the true prin- ciples of astronomy, awakened their surprise very much; and the almanac published afterwards by the mission, predicting the phases of the moon, eclipses, tides, &c., excited in them great interest, and as was natural, raised the missionaries very much in their estimation.
* In Appendix III. will be found an account of their heathen gods, and the ceremonies attendant on the consecration of their heiaus.
HAWAIIAN GROUP. AT
They were very slow in adopting the idea of the earth being round, and Hoapili was known to have argued the point with many of them, insisting on their not being too precipitate in condemning the foreign theory, as he himself was aware that in some of his fishing excur- sions, he had observed that the beach was always lost sight of first.
There is proof, however, of their connecting the action of the tide with the moon, and from her appearance they were able to tell the state of the tides.
In their navigation they never, if they could avoid it, subjected themselves to get out of sight of land, and were never so except by accident. When they found this to be the case, they made use of the heavenly bodies, if visible ; and being accurate observers of the wea- ther and atmospheric changes, they were enabled to find their way back again; for the various changes of weather about the Hawaiian Islands, and the appearance these changes brought about in the clouds over and in the vicinity of the land, afforded them a sure guide. From all accounts, it is supposed that but few persons have been lost, by being driven or sailing off (through mistake) from the land. Many disasters, however, have arisen, from the frailty and smallness of their canoes, although their good management of them was pro- verbial, particularly in the surf. Of late, and since they have pos- sessed foreign vessels, they have lost much of their skill. These vessels they manage after their own way, and although many have been lost by wreck on the islands, I did not hear of any having been blown off. Some amusing anecdotes were told me of their negligence and inability to keep awake during the night.
They are quite fearless on the water ; all swim, and have little fear of loss of life by drowning. They appear quite as much at home in the water as on land, and many of them more so.
Many remarkable instances of their patience under this kind of fatigue, were mentioned to me. One of them, which happened the year of our arrival, is well authenticated, and will also tend to show very great attachment and endurance in the female sex.
As the Hawaiian schooner Kiola, commanded by an American named Thompson, who was married to Kaiha, a female chief, was going to Hawaii, having on board many passengers, on getting into the straits between Maui and Hawaii the schooner foundered, and all on board, forty-five in number, were obliged to take to swimming for safety. Thompson could swim but little, but his wife was quite expert in the art; she promptly came to his aid, placed him on an
48 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
oar, and swam for the shore. The accident occurred on Sunday about noon, when she with many others began to swim for the nearest land, which was Kahoolawe. She continued to support her husband until Monday morning, when he died from exhaustion, and she did not succeed in reaching the shore until that after- noon. She clung to him to the last, at the imminent risk of her own life, and was thirty hours in the water; she was met by some fishermen on landing, who took charge of, and brought her back to Maui.
I have also been told that there are many instances of such deep attachment among the Hawaiians, and that in former times widows and widowers have been known to commit suicide, or pine away with grief at the loss of their partners. Similar evidences of affection and attachment were also exhibited between parents and children.
Notwithstanding the instances of this kind, I must say from my own observation, that I should not be inclined to believe there is much natural affection among them; nor is there apparently any domestic happiness. ‘Thus, it is not an unusual thing for a husband to tell you he has whipped his wife, because she has eaten up all his poe and fish. Formerly their laws of taboo were calculated to pro- duce any thing but a kindly feeling towards the female sex; nor is it contended that they were of much if any consequence, if they were not of the highest class. ‘These, as has already been mentioned, have great influence over the acts of government.
At the time of the advent of the missionaries, marriage was hardly known among them, and all the rules they observed, in relation to sexual intercourse, were a few regulating the extent of their licentious- ness. From tradition, however, it 1s believed that the marriage tie was more regarded prior to the discovery of the island than since. Yet it is good evidence that this tie produced no greater happiness, or rather that they did not look to it as a source of happiness, when it is found that none of their songs, elegies, or other poetic effusions, have any allusion to it; nor are there any terms in the language to express connubial bliss.
The natives of this group generally show very little attachment to their children. All classes of females are unwilling to be burdened with the trouble of them, and, whenever it is possible, commit them to others to nurse. Although I observed this frequently, yet I was told that, since the institution of marriage, a change for the better has taken place; but all admit that this has not been to any great extent.
HAWAIIAN GROUP. 49
There are certainly instances in which many members of a family are united and live in harmony, and I can readily believe that the wish to have families is daily increasing, as the laws now protect and hold out inducements to those who have large ones. For these laws the natives are indebted to the missionaries, who have certainly effected this desired change. ‘This change will do more to improve the character of this people than any other circumstance; and, by care and watchfulness over the wants and pleasures of the rising genera- tion, the parents will Jose some of that selfishness, which is now so predominant a characteristic, that a very short time, spent among them suffices to show its general prevalence.
According to the missionaries and residents, a native is content if he can obtain a little poe and fish, and regards nothing beyond. This, however, according to my experience, is rating them too low; and probably proceeds from their unwillingness to be taught, or become passive to the will of the missionaries, or to exert themselves as much as those doing business for money, and seeking for profit out of their labour, desire. Thus, with different ends in view, they arrive at the same conclusion. In regard to the energies of the natives, as far as my own observations extended, they are always willing to work for a reasonable compensation ; and it is not remarkable that they should prefer their own ease to toiling for what they consider, in the one case, unnecessary, and, in the other, for an inadequate reward.
Having little motive for industry, they expend their physical ener- gies in various athletic sports. A favourite amusement of the chiefs was sliding down hill on a long narrow sled: this was called holua; it was not unlike our boys’ play, when we have snow. The sled was made to slide on one runner, and the chiefs prostrated themselves on it. For this sport they had a trench dug from the top of a steep hill and down its sides, to a great distance over the adjoining plain. ‘This being made quite smooth, and having dry grass laid on it, they were precipitated with great velocity down it, and, it is said, were frequently carried a half, and sometimes a whole mile. Diamond Hill and the plain of Waikiki was one of these localities for this pastime.
Playing in the surf was another of their amusements, and is still much practised. It is a beautiful sight to see them coming in on the top of a heavy roller, borne along with increasing rapidity until they suddenly disappear. What we should look upon as the most dan- gerous surf, is that they most delight in. The surf-board which they use is about six feet in length and eighteen inches wide, made of
VOL. iv. 13
50 HAWAIIAN GROUP.
some light wood. After they have passed within the surf, they are seen buffeting the waves, to regain the outside, whence they again take their course, with almost the speed of an aerial flight. They play for hours in this way, never seeming to tire; and the time to see a Hawaiian happy, is while he is gambolling and frolicking in the surf. I have stood for hours watching their sport with great interest, and, I must say, with no little envy.
Next in interest to the foregoing amusements, were their dances. Some of these consisted, as among the other islanders, in gesture to a monotonous song, whose lascivious meaning was easily interpreted. Many persons were engaged in these dances, of which some are said to have been graceful; but if so, the people must have sadly changed since their first intercourse with the whites.
Their music consisted of drumming on various hollow vessels, calabashes, &c.; but the instrument most used by those who could afford one, was a piece of shark’s skin, drawn tight over a hollow log.
Since the introduction of Christianity, these amusements have been interdicted ; for, although the missionaries were somewhat averse to destroying those of an innocent character, yet, such was the proneness of all to indulge in lascivious thoughts and actions, that it was deemed by them necessary to put a stop to the whole, in order to root out the licentiousness that pervaded the land. They therefore discourage any kind of nocturnal assemblies, as they are well satisfied that it would take but little to revive these immoral propensities with more force than ever. The watchfulness of the government, police, and missionaries, is constantly required to enforce the due observance of the laws.
The principal games now in vogue among them, are cards, of which, as they minister to their love of gambling, they are passion- ately fond, and often indulge in.
They had likewise the amusement of see-saw, which has not yet gone quite out of fashion, and is performed in a manner somewhat different from ours. A forked post is placed in the ground; on this a long pole is placed, which admits several on each side. After two or three ups and downs, they try which shall give the opposite party atumble. This is, at times, adroitly done, and down they all fall, to the infinite amusement both of their adversaries and the bystanders, who indulge in loud laughter and merriment at the expense of those who are so unlucky as to get hurt. ‘They are particularly ungallant, in this respect, to their female associates.
HAWAIIAN GROUP. 51
The practice of medicine was not known in ancient times; they had then no physicians, and the only medical treatment, if such it may be called, was, when they had eaten too heartily of food, to drink sea-water in large quantities, to produce a cathartic effect. They used the loomi-loomi, or kneading the flesh with the hands, in cases of fatigue, over-eating, and pains; and this is yet quite general.
The practice of medicine is said to have taken its rise in the reign of Atapai, the predecessor of Kalaiopua, who was king when Cook visited the islands; since that time there has been a distinct class in this employment. An epidemic, which prevailed extensively, is said to have been the origin of this class, and their number was greatly increased afterwards, in the reign of Kamehameha I.; and after this they were to be found in great numbers, furnished with a vast variety of nostrums.
STONE QUOITS, PESTLE, AND MAIKA.
Coes a le
CONTENTS.
SATURDAY IN HONOLULU—SUNDA Y—CHU RCHES—SCHOOLS—TALENT OF THE SCHOLARS FOR ARITHMETIC — BURIAL-GROUND— GRAVE OF DOUGLASS THE BOTANIST — PLAYS — MAIKA—BUHENEHENE— THROWING THE LANCE—REPAIRS OF THE VESSELS—COURT- MARTIAL—PUNISHMENT OF SWEENY, AND TWO MARINES— DISCHARGE OF SWEENY— POLICE OF HONOLULU—ROADS—EXPEDITION OF THE TENDER—KOLOA—DR. PICKERING AND MR. BRACKENRIDGE’S EXCURSION — WAIMEA—DR. SCHOOF—HANAPEPE—CASCADE —CULTIVATION — DECREASING POPULATION —ITS CAUSES — AGRICULTURE—SCHOOLS— CHURCH—ISLAND OF NITHAU—DISTRICT OF KOLOA—JOURNEY ACROSS THE ISLAND OF KAUAI—RIVER WAINIHA—EXCURSION OF MESSRS. PEALE AND RICH—LIHUI— NAWILI- WILI—MR. AND MRS. LAFON—SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES—HANAWALE — DEBORAH—HER FISH-PONDS—WATERFALL—BEAUTIFUL GROVE—TUTUI-NUT OIL—WAIOLI—MR. TITCOMB’S CULTURE OF SILK—INDIGO— DIVINE SERVICE—CRUISE OF THE TENDER — WAILIOLI MOUNTAIN—POPULATION OF HALELEA—RAWAILOA—WAIALUA—MOUNTAINS OF OAHU— SCHOOLS OF WAIALUA— CHURCH — DISTRICT OF KOOLAU—CLIMATE OF WAIALUA — INDUSTRY — SCHOOLS — CHURCH — POPULATION — INTEMPERANCE — EXCURSION TO THE KAALA MOUNTAINS—EWA—LAULOA—FOSSIL-SHELLS—CHURCH AND SCHOOLS OF EWA— POPULATION — EXCURSION TO WAIANAE—MAUNA-KAALA—SALT LAKE—CAVES— FISH- PONDS — KANEOHE — PEARL- RIVER HARBOUR — PRODUCTIONS OF PALI-KOOLAU —ITS CLIMATE—SCHOOLS—RETURN OF THE FLYING-FISH—FISH-PONDS OF HONOLULU.
CHAVESE EER Td
KAUAI AND OAHU. 1840.
SaturpDay in Honolulu is a gala day, and all ages of both sexes devote themselves to amusement. Towards the afternoon, they may be seen wending their way towards the east end of the town, in every variety of costume, and borne along in every possible manner. All who have health enough must engage in this day’s sport, and every horse is in requisition. The national taste, if I may so speak, is riding horses ; and the more break-neck and furious the animal is, the better. Nicety of equipment is not thought of; any thing answers for a saddle and bridle, and as for stirrups, they are considered quite unnecessary. By four o’clock the crowd is well collected, and feats of horsemanship are practised, consisting generally in those in- voluntary tumblings that inexpert riders are wont to indulge in. The great gathering is on the eastern plain, the road to which is well covered with dust. The whole looks, when the crowd has possession of it, not unlike a rag fair, the predominant colour being yellow. They are generally well behaved, and the only sufferers are the poor horses, who are kept running, not races only, but for the amusement of the riders, whose great delight is to ride at full speed. At times there are races, in which case the crowd is increased by the addition of the foreigners, many of whom are ina state of intoxication. The uproar is proportionably great, and the natives are less conspicuous, their places being occupied by those whose morals and enjoyments are far from being as innocent. When his majesty and suite are present, much more order and decorum are observed, and the whole affords a pleasing and amusing sight. The returning throng is
56 KAUAI AND OAHU.
headed by the king and his party, after whom follow the crowd in a somewhat uproarious style; those on horses indiscriminately mixed, racing and hallooing ; the fair riders being borne along, amidst clouds of dust so thick, that were it not for the rustling of flowing silks and tapas, one would be at a loss to know their sex. By the evening, all is again quiet, and the streets are nearly deserted.
Sunday is ushered in with a decorum and quietness that would satisfy the most scrupulous Puritan. I have often had occasion to speak of the strict observance of the Sabbath among the Polynesian islands; and this strictness is no less remarkable here. Such is the force of example, that even the least orderly of the foreigners are prevented from indulging in any excesses; which, considering the worthless population the town of Honolulu contains, is a proof of the excellence of the police regulations, and the watchfulness of the guardians of the law.
There are several congregations of natives, some of which consist of two thousand persons, all decently clad, exceedingly well behaved, and attentive. The Rev. Mr. Armstrong officiates in the oldest church, which is at the east end of the town. It is a long grass building, calculated to accommodate a very large number of persons: the pulpit, or desk, is in the middle of one of the sides. Service is held twice a day. The Rev. Mr. Smith has also a large church, situated at the west end of the town.
There is a very large church in progress of building, of coral, taken from the reef, which will be capable of containing a congrega- tion of two thousand people. ‘The funds for its erection are provided by the government; Dr. Judd, of the mission, has the general super- intendence of its construction; and it is entirely the work of natives. It makes a good appearance, though I cannot say much for its archi- tectural taste and beauty. It has a small steeple, sufficient to contain a clock and bell.
There are several schools under the superintendence of the mis- sionaries, besides the school for the chiefs, before spoken of, and a charity school, for half-breeds. I attended their examinations ; and the natives performed better than I anticipated. At an examination in the old church, there were seven hundred children, and as many more parents. The attraction that drew together such numbers, was a feast, which I understood was given annually. The scholars had banners, with various mottoes, in Hawaiian, (which were translated to me,) as emblematical of purity, good conduct, steadfast in faith, &c.
KAUAI AND OAHU. 57
It was as pleasing a sight as the Sunday-school exhibitions at home ;
and it gave Captain Hudson and myself great pleasure, at the request of the missionaries, to say a few words of encouragement to them. After the services were over, the scholars formed a procession, and walked to Mr. Smith’s church, the children of the governor and chiefs heading the procession. I was invited in due form to the feast, and as it was a place where I anticipated some display of the native character, I made a point of going. On my arrival at the church, I found several tables set out, one for the accommodation of the chiefs, furnished as we see for a 4th of July lunch at home, with hams, turkeys, chickens, pies, &c. The common people’s children took their poe and raw fish on the floor.
On arriving at the church, the governor became master of ceremo- nies, and iin his numerous aids endeavoured to direct the throng, but all were too eager to get the most convenient seats to heed his commands, and the uproar was great. Some stopped short of their allotted place, and the church soon became a human hive. The governor did his utmost to maintain order and silence, but his voice was not heard; for in such a moment the anxiety he was under to have things conducted with good order, caused him for a time to lose sight of his usual urbanity and decorum of behaviour. He in fact showed that a little of the unbridled ferocity of former times was still within him, which moved him repeatedly to use his fist, and that too upon the fair sex, tumbling them over amid calabashes of poe, raw fish, &c., but with little injury to the individuals. Order was at last restored for a few minutes, duri ing which grace was said by the Rev. Mr. Smith; which being ended, “ane clatter of tongues, clashing of teeth, and Grecane of lips began. It was a joyous sight to see fifteen hundred human. beings so Happy and gratified by this molasses feast: poe and raw fish were the only additions. The latter are every- day food, so that the molasses constituted the special treat. So great is the fondness of the natives for it, that I was told many are induced to send their children to school, merely to entitle them to be present at this feast. It was not a little amusing to see the wistful faces without, contrasted with the joyous and happy ones within ; in one place might be seen a sturdy native biting a piece from a raw fish, and near him another sucking the poe off his fingers, with much grace and sleight of hand. The. molasses was either drank with water or sucked from the fingers. I thought that selfishness predominated among the crowd; “the parents and children did not entirely harmonize as to the
VOL. IV. 15
58 KAUAI AND OAHU.
share that was due to each, and none seemed fully satisfied. Of the molasses there was “short commons;” but, all things considered, the feast went off well. I regretted it had not been held in the open fields, and that the natives were not allowed to have the whole management, without being so immediately under the eye of their teachers; for though sufficiently uproarious, they were evidently under some re- straint. When the food had been consumed, silence was again restored and thanks returned, after which the whole crowd soon vanished. While this was going forward among the common people, those at the table of the old and young chiefs were not idle. The turkeys, pies, &c., appeared quite acceptable, although they were not so great a rarity to them as the molasses feast was to the others. As far as enjoyment went, I should have preferred to have been one of the poor scholars.
At the schools, it has been observed that the scholars are extremely fond of calculations in arithmetic, and possess extraordinary talent in that way. So great is their fondness for it, that in some schools the teachers have had recourse to depriving them of the study as a punishment. I was rather surprised with their readiness when numerical questions were put to them. I met some who were very ready accountants, though their desire of change and want of stability of character prevent them from engaging in any constant and steady employment where the above qualifications would be of practical use. This defect of character, together with the prejudice of foreigners who are engaged in employments where they might be useful, pre- vents their service from being available.
In the neighbourhood of the old churches, near the mission, is the burying-ground, which is a mere common, and the graves are exposed to every kind of neglect. Foreigners, as well as natives, are buried here. The only grave that was pointed out to me, was that of Douglass, the botanist, which was without any inscription whatever. He was gored to death, on Hawau, having fallen into one of the cattle-pits, where a wild bull had been entrapped. ‘The skull of the bull was lying in the yard of an inhabitant of Honolulu. It is to be hoped that when the new church shall be finished, the space which adjoins it will claim from the authorities some attention, and be suitably enclosed.
I was much struck with the absence of sports among the boys and children. On inquiry, I learned that it had, after mature deliberation and experience, been considered advisable by the missionaries to deprive them of all their heathenish enjoyments, rather than allow them to occupy their minds with any thing that might recall old
KAUAI AND OAHU. 59
associations. The consequence is, that the Hawaiian boys are staid and demure, having the quiet looks of old men. I cannot doubt that they possess the natural tendency of youth towards frolicksome relaxa- tions ; but the fear of offending keeps a constant restraint over them. It might be well, perhaps, to introduce some innocent amusements ; and indeed I believe this has been attempted, for I occasionally saw them flying kites.
The native games formerly practised were all more or less those of hazard, which doubtless gave them their principal zest.
The governor was kind enough, at my request, to have the game of maika played. This was formerly a favourite amusement of the chiefs, and consists in the art of rolling a stone of the above name. I had heard many extraordinary accounts of the distance to which this could be thrown or rolled, which was said to be sometimes upwards of a mile.
In some places they had trenches dug for this game upwards of a mile in length, about three feet wide and two deep, with the bottom level, smooth, and hard. The game is still practised, (although none of the trenches remain,) on any level ground that may be suitable. In the present instance, the governor selected the road in front of the house I occupied. ‘There was a large concourse of spectators, and several men were chosen by the governor to throw. ‘The maika is a piece of hard lava, in the shape of a small wheel or roller, three inches in diameter and an inch and a half thick, very smooth and highly polished. The greatest distance to which they were thrown by the most expert player, was four hundred and twenty yards. Many were extremely awkward, and it was necessary for the spectators to stand well on the side of the road for fear of accidents. All of them threw the maika with much force, which was evident from its re- bounding when it met with any obstruction. The crowd, which amounted to three thousand persons, were greatly amused. This was their great gambling game, and such was its fascination, that property, wives, children, their arm and lee bones after death, and even themselves while living, would be staked on a single throw in the heathen time.
They have another game, which I was told is now more in vogue than it has been for some years. ‘The revival of it is attributed by some to the visit of the French frigate Artemise; and certaimly the natives do not appear to feel themselves so much restricted in their amusements as they did before that event. It is called buhenehene, and consists in hiding a stone under several bundles of tapa, generally
60 KAUAI AND OAHU.
five. He who conceals it sits on one side of the bundles, while those playing occupy a place opposite to him. The bundles are usually of different colours, and about the size of a pillow. Each player has a stick three feet long, ornamented with a feather or cloth, with which each in turn designates the bundle under which he thinks the stone is hidden, by a blow. If the guess be correct, it counts one in his favour; if wrong, he who has concealed it gains one. He who first counts ten wins the game. ‘This game appears very simple, and one would be inclined to believe it all luck, until the game is witnessed ; it is really amusing to a bystander, for the players always evince great eagerness, and during the operation of concealment, the face and eyes are narrowly watched by some, while the muscles of the bare arm are by others. So satisfied are they that the eye betrays the place of concealment, that the hider covers his eyes until he hears the stroke of the rod. An expert player is rarely deceived, however often the hand may be passed to and fro under the bundles. This game is now played for pigs, tapa, taro, &c.
The governor gave us an exhibition of throwing the lance, which he said had formerly been a favourite amusement of all the people, but was now practised only by the soldiers. The lance or spear is formed of a pole of the hibiscus, from seven to nine feet in length, on the larger end of which is a small roll of tapa. The exhibition was in the fort, where several soldiers had prepared themselves for the exercise. One of them placed himself at a distance of fifteen or twenty paces from three or four others, who endeavoured to hit him. He evaded the spears by throwing his body on one side, stooping, and dodging, in a very graceful manner. After this they were ordered to divide, and began throwing at each other, until, when one or two had been hit rather severely, the contest waxed warm, and blows were dealt without much ceremony, until the combatants came to close quarters, when the sport ended in a scuffle, which it required the authoritative voice of the governor to terminate.
This scene was highly amusing, and was the only occasion during my stay at the islands, in which I saw any temper shown, or any dis- position to fight. The natives, indeed, are remarkably good-tem- pered; and many persons long resident here stated to me they very seldom quarrelled with each other. I have observed that when they see another in a passion they generally laugh, although they them-- selves may be the object of it.
In the latter part of October, when the Vincennes had nearly finished her repairs, it was discovered that her foremast was so rotten
KAUAI AND OAHU. 61
as to make it necessary to take it out and rebuild it on shore. By using one of the spare topmasts and purchasing a spar, we succeeded in rebuilding it. ‘The cheeks and trestle-trees of the Peacock’s mast had also to be replaced in consequence of decay. ‘These were vexa- tious occurrences, occupying the little time we had to spare, and making it uncertain whether we should be able to perform the remainder of our work. Fortunately, we found at Honolulu good workmen, disposed to afford us all the assistance in their power, and being also well provided ourselves with carpenters, we were enabled to overcome these difficulties in time, though at considerable expense.
Among our other duties, a court-martial became necessary. ‘lhe services we were engaged in had rendered it impossible to convene one prior to our arrival here; and if it had not been for the imperative necessity of making an example in the case of two marines on board the Peacock, I should have been inclined still to defer it from want of time. Besides the two marines, there was an unruly fellow by the name of Sweeny, an Englishman, who had been shipped in the tender at New Zealand, and was at times so riotous on board my ship, that I determined to try bim also. A court composed of the oldest officers of the squadron sentenced them “to be flogged at such time and place as the commander of the squadron might think proper.” Understanding from our consul that the sailors of the whaling fleet, as is most generally the case, were disposed to be disorderly, and my interference having been several times asked for, I thought it a good opportunity to show the crews of all these vessels that authority to punish offences existed. I therefore ordered the sentence of the court to be put into execution publicly, after the usual manner in such cases; a part of the punishment to be inflicted at each vessel, dimi- nishing very much its extent in the cases of the two marines. At the time of the infliction of the punishment I received a letter (for which see Appendix IV.) from the most respectable portion of the crew, requesting Sweeny’s discharge, and stating that he was a troublesome character. ‘To insure his dismissal, they offered to pay all the debts he might owe to the government. As he had no claim on the squadron or flag, which, I was afterwards told, he had fre- quently cursed, and as he had been only six months in the squadron (having joined it with scarce a shirt to his back), I resolved to comply with the men’s request, and sent him out of the squadron at once, with his bag and hammock, far better off than when he joined us.
VOL. Iv. 16
62 KAUAI AND OAHU.
The ship became orderly again, having got rid of one of the greatest of the many rascals who are found roaming about Polynesia.
This act, together with the legal punishment of the marines for refusing to do duty, when their time of service had not expired, was another of the many complaints brought against me on my return.
I have obtained a copy of the enlistment of the marines, (which will be found in Appendix V.,) that it may be seen whether it was, or was not, my duty to hold control over these men. The signing of the roll of enlistment took place before I took command of the squad- ron. ‘The original document was on file in the Navy Department, when the judge advocate of the court was endeavouring to prove there was no such document in existence.
The men’s time of liberty having expired, they were again received on board, heartily sick of their frolic. ‘They were remarkably orderly and well-behaved while on shore, and indeed the police is so efficient that it would have been impossible for them to be riotous, if so disposed, without finding themselves prisoners in the fort. I must here do Governor Kekuanaoa the justice to say, that he performs the part of a most excellent and energetic magistrate, and while he insists on others conforming to the laws, he is equally mindful of them him- self. His fault, if he errs, lies in carrying them into effect too quickly and without sufficient examination. An instance of this fell under my observation, which will be spoken of at a future time.
The usual amusements for visiters in Honolulu, are billiards, bowl- ing-alleys, riding, and visiting. ‘There are but few vehicles, and in consequence of the want of roads, these can go no further than the eastern plain, which is but a short distance. A road for wheel-car- riages might be constructed from one end of the island to the other without difficulty, and with little expense; and this is the only island of the group where it would be practicable from end to end.
The roads for horses are mere foot-paths, which at times pass over very difficult places, that by a short turn might be avoided, and with a great saving of labour. This, however, never seems to enter a native’s head, and the neglect to improve the roads is akin to his irrational expedient of doubling his load by adding stones as a coun- terpoise, instead of dividing his bundle.
Desirous of having as thorough an examination made of all the islands of the group as possible, and the repairs of the tender being
KAUAI AND OAHU. 63
completed, I put Mr. Knox in charge of her, and sent her with several of the naturalists to Kauai, with instructions to land them, on their return, on the west side of Oahu, for its examination.
They left Honolulu on the 25th of October, and experiencing light winds, did not reach Kauai, although distant only a few hours’ sail, until the morning of the 27th, when they were landed at Koloa, on the southeast side of that island. Here a heavy sea was rolling. After the vessel anchored, some canoes came off, and the people pointed out a good landing in a small rocky cove, that appeared as though it had once been a large cavern, whose top had fallen in.
On landing, they entered an extensive level plain, bounded -by a ridge of mountains, and cultivated in sugar-cane and mulberries. Captain Stetson has an establishment here built of adobes, but these are not found to be adapted to the climate. The environs of Koloa afford some pasturage ; the soil is good, though dry and very stony ; the grass and foliage, however, looked luxuriant. About two miles from Koloa, Captain Stetson has his silk establishment, consisting of mulberry-grounds, cocoonery, &c. Our gentlemen were kindly re- ceived by Messrs. Stetson, Peck, Burnham, and others.
Agreeably to instructions, the naturalists divided themselves into three parties—one, consisting of Dr. Pickering and Mr. Bracken- ridge, was to cross over the centre of the island, from Waimea to Halelea, observing the botany of the high ground; another, compris- ing Messrs. Peale and Rich, was to proceed along the coast on its eastern side; and the third party, Messrs. Dana and Agate, intended to pursue an intermediate course, to view the scenery, geological formation, &c. The schooner was in the mean time to make some examinations of the roadsteads and small harbours of the island.
There were two old craters near the beach, which were visited. Only a few trees were observed. On the low wet grounds are taro- patches and fish-ponds. Among the few interesting plants were a species of Daphne, a Cleome, and some Sidas. The garden of Captain Stetson contained several ornamental plants, brought from St. Catharine’s, Brazil. ‘The garden had a pretty appearance, being enclosed with a hedge of ti plants (Dracena), set closely together, about five feet in height, topped with thin, wide-spreading leaves, while the walks were bordered with Psilotum instead of box.
The mulberry trees do not produce well here, being subject to blight, and requiring great attention. This is thought to be owing to the dryness of the strong trade-winds that constantly blow, and
64 KAUAI AND OAHU.
which have parted with their moisture in passing over the high lands of Oahu, lying directly to windward.
The silk is reeled by native women. The specimens seen appeared of good quality, but were not reeled sufficiently fine, or with that atten- tion to economy which is necessary to its profitable cultivation. It is thought it will prove a good article for the Mexican market, for use in saddlery.
From what I understood at Honolulu, this silk establishment, having been formed on too expensive a scale, has been a failure, and the capital, or original outlay, is considered as entirely sunk. The possibility of success is not doubted by those who have failed; but these silk establishments should begin by small outlays and be gra- dually extended by the investment of the profits.
About a mile back from the landing is the mission-house, and the sugar establishment of Messrs. Ladd & Co., with a well-made road leading to it. Beyond this, on the brow of the hill, is situated the house of Mr. Peck, enjoying as fine a prospect as is to be found in these islands. Around his establishment, in native-built houses, are the cocooneries.
The sugar-mills of Ladd & Co. are said to be doing a good busi- ness. ‘They are turned by water. The sugar is of a fair quality, and has been sold in the United States at a profit. The natives are induced to raise the sugar-cane, which is sometimes ground, or manu- factured, on shares, and is also bought. The labour of the natives, in raising the cane, costs twelve and a half cents per day. This, how- ever, is paid in paper currency, issued by Ladd & Co., redeemable at their store; consequently the price of the labour is no more than six and a quarter cents; for the sale of goods is rarely made in these islands under a profit of one hundred per cent. ‘The want of a native currency is beginning to be much felt, both by the government and people; a fact that will tend to show the advance they have made and are making in civilization.
The sugar, I understood, could be afforded in the United States at from four to four and a half cents the pound. This, however, I think is rather a low estimate, to include growth, manufacture, freight, and charges.
Dr. Pickering and Mr. Brackenridge set out on foot, the day after the tender arrived, along the southern coast, for Waimea, distant eighteen miles, in order to take the western route across the island. The whole distance between Koloa and Waimea was found to be a
KAUAI AND OAHU. 65
series of sunburnt hills and barren plains, sloping gradually from the base of the mountains to the ocean, and now and then intersected with ravines, or, as they are called in the Hawaiian Islands, “oulches.” Only a few coarse grasses are met with, quite unfit for pasture.
At Waimea, the fort built by the Russians, under their absurd trade-master, Dr. Schoof, is still in existence. His ambition would have made him the proprietor of the whole island, although his only business was to take possession of the remains of the wreck of a ship belonging to the Russian Company, that had been lost in the bay. Several Russian vessels were afterwards sent there, which Schoof took charge of, by displacing their masters. It is said he made presents to Kamehameha I., and received in return a grant of land from him; some accounts say, the whole island! It is quite certain, however, that Kamehameha’s fears were excited by the reports that were circulated from time to time, that the Russians, through Dr. Schoof’s operations, intended to get such a foothold as to subvert his authority, and keep possession of the island. With his usual promptness, he, in consequence, ordered the governor, Kau- mualu, at once to send them all away. This was effected without any disturbance, and all the Russians embarked in a brig, in which they proceeded to Halelea, to join other Russian vessels that were lying there, and all departed together. As any intention of taking forcible possession, or colonizing the island, was shortly afterwards denied, in the most positive manner, by the Russians, it is probable that the whole was the work of a vain and ambitious man, who had suddenly found himself elevated above his own sphere. That he either wanted the inclination or the courage to carry out his concep- tions, if he had any, is manifest, from his immediate acquiescence to the order of the chief to quit the island. He is now known at the islands under the appellation of the Russian Doctor, although by birth a German. The Russian Stone Fort, as it is now called, is garrisoned by a guard of natives.
Waimea offers the best anchorage at this island, except in the months of January and February, when the trades are interrupted, and the wind blows strong from the southwest, and directly on shore.
About a mile west of Waimea is the spot where the first English boat landed from Cook’s expedition. The village of Waimea takes its name from the river, which rises in the mountains, and after a course of about fifteen miles, enters the sea there. It is navigable
VOL. Iv. iyi
66 KAUAI AND OAHU.
three-fourths of a mile from its mouth, in boats. The water is used for irrigating the valley, and might also be appropriated to manufac- turing purposes, as there are many excellent mill-seats, and a steady supply of water for such purposes.
The district in which Waimea is situated, is called Hanapepe, and extends to Napali on the west, and Hanapepe on the east. The former is about twenty miles distant from Waimea, and the latter six. At Napali a part of the central range of mountains meets the sea, and shuts in the plain near the sea-shore by a perpendicular pre- cipice, between fifteen hundred and two thousand feet in height.
The sandy plain that skirts the southwest side of the island is from one-fourth of a mile to a mile wide, and lies one hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea; the ground rises thence gradually to the summit of the mountains. This land is fit for little except the pasturage of goats, and presents a sunburnt appearance, being destitute of trees to the distance of eight or ten miles from the sea. The plain above spoken of, therefore, has little to recommend it. There is a strip of land just before the mountain ascent begins, which has an excellent soil, but for the want of water will probably long remain unproductive. On the low grounds the cocoa-nut tree thrives and bears abundant fruit, which is not the case with those on the other islands.
The sea-coast bounding this district, is considered the best for fishing, and the manufacture of salt might be extensively carried on.
The drinking water, except that obtained from the river, is brackish.
The valley of Hanapepe borders on the eastern part of this district : it has apparently been formed by volcanic action. At its entrance it is about half a mile wide, and decreases in width as it approaches the mountains. Atits head is a beautiful waterfall, of which Mr. Agate succeeded in getting a correct drawing.
The basaltic rocks and strata, as it will be seen, have been much reversed and upturned, and present their columnar structure very distinctly to view, inclining in opposite directions. Although the volume of water in this cascade is not great, yet its form and situation add very much to its beauty: it falls into a quiet basin beneath; and the spray being driven by the wind upon each bank, affords nourish- ment to a variety of ferns which grow there. At its foot it forms a small river, which passes down through the centre of the valley. This whole scene is very striking, the banks forming a kind of amphi-
KAUAI AND OAUBHU. 67
theatre rich in foliage, and with rills of water coursing down them in every direction.
The water of this stream is used by the natives to irrigate their taro-patches, and the soil of the valley is exceedingly fertile, pro- ducing sweet-potatoes, pumpkins, cabbages, beans, &c. The whole district is almost entirely supplied with food from the Hanapepe and Waimea valleys, which occasions the population for the most part to centre in these two places: throughout the remainder of the island, the huts and inhabitants are but sparsely scattered.
The district of Hanapepe forms a mission station, and is under the care of the Rev. Samuel Whitney. He states the population in 1838 to have been 3272. Mr. Whitney informed me, that for some years past he has kept a register of births and deaths, which shows that the latter is to the former as three to one. Other late authorities make the decrease in this district as eight to one for several years; but a resident of such standing as Mr. Whitney must be reckoned the best authority.
Mr. Whitney imputes this rapid decrease to former vicious habits, and both native and foreign authorities attribute the introduction of the venereal to the visit of Cook. This infection, brought to these islands by the first voyagers, may now be said to pervade the whole population, and has reduced the natives to a morbid sickly state: many of the women are incapable of child-bearing, and of the children who are born only a few live to come to maturity.
Mr. Whitney assigns as another cause of the decrease in the population, the recklessness of human life, brought about by the despotic government under which they have been living, which has destroyed all motives to enterprise and industry, rendered precarious the blessings of life, and produced a corresponding recklessness as to the future. Much of the sickness is owing to over-eating and irregularity in meals; for the inhabitants fast sometimes for days together, and then gormandize to the greatest excess.
There has been no case of infanticide, to Mr. Whitney’s knowledge, during the last ten years, and he does not believe that the law inter- dicting sexual intercourse is promotive of this crime; for from all his inquiries, he has not been able to learn a single fact that will tend to warrant such a conclusion: on the contrary, he thinks that the law in question has rather acted to prevent its commission.
Intoxication certainly forms no part of the cause of diseases, for Mr. Whitney bears testimony, that he has not known six cases of intox1-
68 KAUAI AND OAHU.
cation within the last thirteen years. A spirit, however, is distilled from the ti, potatoes, water-melon, &c.
The marriage law has had a good effect in this district, and will probably be the means of arresting the desolation that 1s now sweep- ing over the land. From thirty to forty marriages have taken place yearly. I have been thus particular in the population of this dis- trict, as it is generally reported to be that wherein the causes of decrease are most active. This cannot be owing to the climate, which is very similar to that of the leeward portions of the other islands, and the atmosphere is considered dry and healthy. Can it be owing to the fact, that the original virus of the disease was here first spread, and that it has continued to be more virulent here than elsewhere ?
As respects agriculture, there being no market for the sale of pro- duce, the supply seldom exceeds the wants of the district. Some attempts have, however, been made to produce cotton and the sugar- cane; but, for want of encouragement, the produce has not yet been sufficient to clear the expenses.
The improvement in the morals and instruction of the natives is very considerable. There are sixteen schools, all taught by native teachers, at the expense of the people. T'wo-thirds of the adult population read, and many of them can also write. ‘The instruction is now confined to the youth and children, of whom about three hun- dred attend the schools regularly, and six hundred more occasionally. Much improvement has lately taken place in their habitations, and in the manufacturing of their wearing apparel, consisting of tapa, &c.
There is one church, and one hundred and fifty-nine communi- cants; the number that attend worship in the morning is about a thousand, and in the afternoon about half that number.
The island of Nihau was not visited by any one belonging to the squadron; but it seems proper that in giving an account of the Ha- watian Islands, it should be spoken of. It is situated sixteen miles southwest of Kauai, and is eighteen miles long by eight broad. ‘There is an anchorage on its western side, but no harbour. Its eastern side is rocky and unfit for cultivation; the inhabitants therefore reside on its western side, on the sea-shore, and are for the most part miserably poor. They cultivate, principally, yams and sweet-potatoes, the former of which succeed much better here than at any of the other islands. Water is very scarce, and they suffer occasionally from droughts, from which cause they are not able to raise the taro. This
KAUAI AND OAHU. 69
island is celebrated for the beautiful mats manufactured by its women. It is also said to be a favourable place for the manufacture of salt.
The number of inhabitants is one thousand; and what is remark- able, although but a few miles removed from Waimea, on the island of Kauai, they show an increase, in the proportion of births over deaths, of eight to six. The climate cannot be very different, and both would be equally subject to drought, if it were not for the rivers and the irrigation dependent on them. On this island there are two hundred children, about one-third of whom read: these are divided into twelve schools, under native teachers.
The district of Koloa on Kauai is twelve miles long by five broad. The face of the country is much broken into hills and extinguished craters. The land is good along its whole extent and half its breadth, and they have a sufficient quantity of rain to enable them to dispense with irrigation, of which but a small extent only would be susceptible.
The climate is generally mild and equable, the range of the ther- mometer being usually from 60° to 80° F.; but during the summer months it is occasionally found as high as 90°, and in winter as low as 50°. Sugar-cane grows in luxuriance, as well as cotton; the mulberry, both Chinese and multicaulis, Indian corn, sweet-potatoes, yams, and taro also flourish.
This has been the seat of the operations of some foreigners (Ameri- cans), and although, as has been before remarked, the natives derive but little pecuniary profit from their labour, yet the influence of a steady occupation has produced a striking improvement; they are clothed in foreign goods, and are generally found employed, and not lounging about as formerly. The comforts of their habitations have, however, as yet undergone but little change.
The population in 1840, was one thousand three hundred and forty- eight. There is a church, with one hundred and twenty-six members, but no schools. The teachers set apart for this service were em- ployed by the chiefs, who frequently make use of them to keep their accounts, gather in their taxes, &c. The population is here again increasing, partly by immigration, whence it was difficult to ascer- tain its ratio. This district, it will be observed, lies immediately on the east of Hanapepe. Infanticide is not known, and drunkenness rarely if ever happens. There are no epidemics; asthma and oph- thalmia are the diseases most prevalent: the latter is ascribed to the strong winds which blow constantly, and irritate the eye with the minute particles borne on them.
VOL. IV. 18
70 KAUAI AND OAHU.
There is no western route from Waimea to Halelea; it is therefore necessary, in getting to Napali, to take a canoe and coast along the shore. As this would not have answered the purpose of our gentle- men’s visit, they determined to take the path directly across the island, and were provided with two guides by the kindness of Mr. Whitney. ‘They left his hospitable mansion the next morning, hay- ing noted the standing of the sympiesometer. Shortly after starting they were joined by a native, laden with provisions and cooking utensils, which the kindness of Mr. Whitney had provided, and sent for their use. They at once commenced a very gradual ascent over a barren surface to the half-way house, about twelve miles. At first they found nothing but withered grass, then a few ferns, where goats only could find pasturage, and, a mile or two before reaching the half way house, some stunted acacias and sandalwood. The route was along the river the whole distance, though in a deep gorge beneath them. All the wood used at Waimea must be brought from this distance. ‘Their guides carried them about a mile beyond the half-way house to a deserted hut, intending to stop there for the night; but our gentlemen found it so infested with fleas and vermin, that, although it rained, they returned, and passed the night comparatively free from these annoyances. The height of the half-way hut, as given by the sym- plesometer, was three thousand four hundred feet. The sea was in sight the whole distance, and the coast was seen as far to the west as Napali. The country thus seen appeared similar to what they had passed over : 1t was furrowed in places by ravines, but yields no water except when rain falls abundantly upon the mountains.
At half-past five p. m., the thermometer stood at 69°, and the next morning at half-past six at 72°.
After sending the native back to Waimea who brought the comforts which Mr. Whitney’s kindness had provided them with, they began their journey across the island, and entered into a very luxuriant and interesting botanical region, passing through several glades, which appeared well adapted for the cultivation of wheat and Irish potatoes (which have never been tried here). Large tracts were free from wood and level, on which was growing a sort of wild cabbage in great abundance. Wild hogs were evidently numerous, for many were started in the bush, and their rooting was to be seen along the whole route. Wild dogs are said also to exist in bands. During the day, a storm of wind and rain came on. After passing this fertile region, they reached the table-land, which is a marshy district filled
KAUAI AND OAHU. Tl
with quagmires, exceedingly difficult to travel through, and in which ‘they frequently sunk up to their knees in mud and water. This table-land was supposed to be upwards of twenty miles square. Here the natives were inclined to turn back ; but, as they afterwards said, they considered themselves bound to proceed “on so unusual an occasion.” Their fears arose from the report that natives had been lost in crossing by this path. At about 3 p. M., they reached the Pali or precipice, which is like that of Oahu, having a very abrupt, though not dangerous, descent. Many interesting plants were gathered on this route, such as Acena, Daphne, Pelargonium, Plantago, Drosera, with several interesting grasses.
At the Pali they neglected to make observations with the symple- someter, but their impression was that the height was six or seven hundred feet more than the situation of the half-way house, which would give an altitude of about four thousand feet. Mr. Alexander, the missionary at Halelea, informed them that he had made it that height by triangulation.
The descent of the Pali was found to be very steep and fatiguing ; but by slipping, tumbling, scrambling, and swinging from tree to tree, they reached the margin of the river Wainiha, at its foot. The Stream was in this place about six hundred feet above tide. They were obliged to ford it; and in consequence of the heavy rain of the day before, it was so much swollen as to be almost impassable, the water reaching to their breasts. This, together with floundering through the taro-patches, as the darkness set in, made them consent to take up their lodgings in a native hut. In the morning they passed down the valley of Wainiha, which here forms a glen. The sides of the mountains, that rise abruptly about fifteen hundred feet on each side, are covered with vegetation in every variety of tint, whilst the tutui tree (Candle-nut), the bread-fruit, orange, banana, plantations of Brous- sonetia papyrifera, and taro-beds, together with pandanus trees, whose blossoms scent the air for miles, filled the valley with luxuriance. This prolific vegetation, with numerous cascades falling over the per- pendicular sides of the rock, combine to form one of the most pic- turesque scenes on this island.
About noon they reached Halelea, most of the distance to which was travelled along the sea-shore. On their way they crossed the Lumahae, a river similar to the Wainiha, and running parallel with it. The foot of the Pali is about five miles from the coast.
The extensive sugar plantations, with a few neat cottages, with
72 KAUAI AND OAHU.
verandas and thatched roofs, and the rows of small cabins for the labourers, give the place the aspect of the tropical plantations of” European nations.
Messrs. Peale and Rich, being furnished with horses and a guide by the kindness of Mr. Burnham, took the eastern route from Halelea through a fine level country, cultivated in sugar-cane and affording good pasturage. ‘The natives here use the plough, and it was said at Koloa that there was an instance of two of them having netted one hundred and forty dollars by their crop of sugar the last year.
The principal trees were acacias (koa), pandanus, and the tutui (Aleurites). The latter is the largest and most conspicuous, from its white leaves resembling blossoms at a distance. 'The plain over which they passed was two hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea. There are in it many gullies formed by the small streams that run down from the mountains; all of these are, however, blocked up by sand-bars, through which the water filtrates, forming quick- sands, which it is somewhat dangerous to pass over. ‘The immediate shore along this route is rocky and susceptible of little cultivation, except near the mouths of the rivers, where taro-patches are to be found.
At noon they reached Lihui, a settlement lately undertaken by the Rev. Mr. Lafon, for the purpose of inducing the natives to remove from the sea-coast, thus abandoning their poor lands to cultivate the rich plains above. Mr. Lafon has the charge of the mission district lying between those of Koloa and Waioli. This district was a short time ago formed out of the other two.
The principal village is Nawiliwil, ten miles east of Koloa. This district contains about forty square miles, being twenty miles long by two broad. ‘The soil is rich: it produces sugar-cane, taro, sweet- potatoes, beans, &c. The only market is that of Koloa. The cane suffers somewhat from the high winds on the plains.
Mr. and Mrs. Lafon are very industrious with their large school, to which some of the children come a distance of five miles. Our gentlemen were much pleased with what they saw, and were satisfied that good would be effected by their manner of treating the natives.
The temperature of Lihui has much the same range as that of Koloa, and the climate is pleasant; the trade-winds sweep over it uninterruptedly, and sufficient rain falls to keep the vegetation green throughout the year.
KAUAI AND OAHU. 73
As yet there is little appearance of increase in industry, or im- provement in the dwellings of the natives. There are no more than about seventy pupils in this district, who are taught by natives ; there are two houses of worship, and about forty communicants. No decrease is apparent in the population within a few years.
On the fertile places, although the pasturage was good, yet no cattle were to be seen.
From Lihui, they pursued their way to Hanawale, which is a small fishing village at the mouth of a little stream. The country on this route was uninteresting, until they reached Wailua, the residence of Deborah, a chief woman of the islands, readily known as such from her enormous size, and the cast of her countenance. She has a person living with her called Olivia Chapin, who speaks English, and has learned how to extort money. Deborah has about forty men in her district ; but they were absent, being employed in the moun- tains cutting timber to pay the tax to the king.
Near Deborah’s residence are extensive fish-ponds belonging to her, which have been made with great labour: they are of different degrees of saltness; the fish are taken from the sea when young and put into the saltest pond; as they grow larger, they are removed into one less salt, and are finally fattened in fresh water. While our gentlemen were there, Deborah received young fish in payment of the poll-tax, which were immediately transferred to her ponds.
Wailua, (two waters,) was formerly a place of some importance. It is situated on a small stream of the same name, in a barren, sandy spot.
Deborah furnished them with a double canoe, to carry them up the river to visit the falls. Taking the western branch, they ascended it for two and a half miles.
There are many good taro-patches and sugar-plantations on its banks. They landed in what appeared to have been an old